Broome, Cape Leveque and back to Broome

The next part of our journey was to Cape Leveque/Dampier Peninsula from Broome, as shown on this map.

Broome, for the first stop, was a catch up / stock up time – work on the blog, laundry, phone calls, fix the water pump in Belle and lots of shopping (apart from groceries and beer, they have a very nice swimsuit and dress shop, and of course a Bunnings!). Then off to Cape Leveque.

Our three stays at Cape Leveque basically featured beach walks, amazing sunrises and sunsets, plus lots and lots of wind. These pictures tell the story (apart from the wind).

PENDER BAY ESCAPE

Campsite on the point between two beaches – sunrise shot at Pender Bay Escape.
Sunrise reflected on the cliffs.
Enjoying the beachside cliffs and caves.
Quite fun just exploring a beautiful beach which we had to ourselves.
Returning home after a beach walk.
Couldn’t resist a kiss at the loveheart rock.

MIDDLE LAGOON

Middle Lagoon was more like a regular campground, ideally situated on two beaches; one for the fishermen and one for swimmers.
Daytime at the swimming beach.
I enjoyed a couple of swims at this good beach (except for the sandflies that appeared at 4pm). While I was swanning around on the beach, Dick was helping the guy that managed the place with some computer issues. We noticed his sign saying ‘Computer Geek Wanted’, so Dick offered to see what he could do. In the end (ie after about 3 hours over two days), Dick successfully resolved the problems. The guy was very grateful and offered to pay but Dick said just help out the next person who needs help.
Vicki and Neil (friends from Sydney) were in the area so joined us for coffee at the cafe at Middle Lagoon. As he sat down Dick broke a table vase with a plastic plant. A bit later the cafe manager came over and asked if Dick could have a look at their computer, to make up for breaking that vase! They had some issues that Dick managed to help them with quite quickly. For that he was given an ice cream, which he happily accepted. I realised that we needed to leave or Dick might have a new volunteer job at Middle Lagoon.

Sunset at Middle Lagoon.

KOOLJAMAN CAPE LEVEQUE WILDERNESS CAMP


When we checked in here, Dick asked if we could get a beachfront shelter camp (normally booked out months in advance) and to our surprise we got one for one night and its the same one we had five years ago. The ownership has changed and the Native Title land is now owned and managed by the Bardi Jawi, two aboriginal communities.  That is the aboriginal flag in pride of place at the entrance.
Our beach shelter camp right on the Eastern Beach, complete with shower, table and bench, fire pit and fire wood.
They brought us fire wood – what else could we do!!!
Sunset views – a beautiful sky in one direction and last light on the beach with the campfire in the other direction.
The next day we moved to a regular campsite on the cliff near the office and overlooking the Western Beach.
The indigenous communities have developed the facility in line with the communities’ aspirations and their inherent knowledge of the land.  I took this photo to illustrate some of the changes that are now operational; lots of restrictions on where we can go.  In this case, areas we could previously drive to are now only accessed by walking. This reflects the Aboriginal values of caring for land and country.
The owners promote the natural wonders, wildlife, marine life and coastline as part of what makes this a unique experience.  Here is a prime example. On a rather dull day, we waited for sunset and saw a stunning display, just two minutes after the top photo was taken.They also offer cultural tours and want to be respected as custodians of this country.
It was truly magical to see the cliffs light up like this.
A fitting sunset photo to end the Cape Leveque experience. Although we did not participate in any of the cultural experiences, we did appreciate being in such a special environment and we respect the indigenous owners’ approach to managing their land.  Their willingness to share their country and culture with others outweighs any objections to how they decide to manage it, and potentially their less sophisticated management skills in doing that.

The second stop in Broome was another catch up time, with loads of errands and repair jobs to do in addition to the regular shopping and laundry BUT this time we added some treats for us

Dinner out at the Sydney Cove Oyster Bar which has relocated to Broome.
Such a treat to indulge in two fine dining restaurants, for the first time since Sydney.
AND, I didn’t want to be in Broome and not see the famous Cable Beach at sunset. As you can see here, it looks like a car park and apparently there are traffic jams as everyone tries to leave at the same time. We saw enough so didn’t need to wait until sunset, especially after all the wonderful beaches we had just visited.

So glad we revisited this beautiful part of Australia.  It was interesting to see how aboriginal land rights are being practically implemented.  That said we were only able to visit commercial operations and could not visit any aboriginal communities, due to covid restrictions.  $50,000 fines were advertised if one took the wrong road and ended up in communities, so there was a big incentive to follow the rules. From here on we start heading south, and basically say ‘goodbye’ to the hot weather.

7 thoughts on “Broome, Cape Leveque and back to Broome

  1. From lockdown in UK, this is a wonderful way to travel to places that I don’t think I would ever get to see. Wonderful photos of stunning landscapes and sunset. Those colours are brilliantly vivid. And you two look like you are having the best time ever!! Hope all continues well and safely. Cathy x

  2. What is it about water pumps? My cousin has been having trouble with his lately, you have just had trouble and mine is perpetually weird!
    That pindan rock is really something isn’t it? The colours in your sunset photos are stunning.
    My godson is a pilot for the Flying Doctor Service and is now based in Broome. He had his wedding on the amphitheatre in front of the Cable Beach Resort. A couple of days after the wedding he and a mate took us on a flight up to James Price Point and the pindan was amazing. I might add that his friend flies for a commercial operator – we didn’t have a joy flight in the Flying Doctor plane – hahhah.
    Anyway, it all sounds wonderful and I hope you have a great trip south, despite the cold.

  3. Magnificent photos Pat & Dick – really professional – the views are sensational. So glad that the land is being managed so well by the traditional owners. Keep enjoying your wonderful travels – I certainly am !!!

    Love Jeanette

  4. Your blog is a lovely pause during our lock down. We love both the images and commentary. You both look very well and happy which is wonderful to see.
    Amanda & Alan

  5. Ahh so good Pat and Dick. And seems like computer skills are just as useful on s road trip as mechanical skills.
    Well done you two .
    Photos are fabulous btw
    Anne

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