It was nice to be back in Alice Springs as we enjoy the town, and all its facilities.  Its a big change from free camps and rough roads! Due to our mechanical problems we ended up in town for one of the busiest weekends of the year when the normal population of 30,000 becomes 45,000.  Somehow we managed to share an ensuite site (our own toilet and shower) with Chris & Chris (C&C) at the Big 4 CP, our regular stopover in Alice, so we were happy with that.  Although unplanned it was interesting to be there for the Finke Desert Race, Australia’s ultimate desert race for motorbikes (700), quads and buggies (~200 km to Finke one day, then back the next).  We decided to do some of the race related activities since we were there, so we attended the Finke Street Party and Night Markets, as well as the Finke Desert Race Scrutineering, where all competitors have their machines and clothing checked and passed for racing.  Over 3000 people attended this, so it was interesting to get some insight into a unique subculture we know nothing about.  Two nights of eating from food stalls though was enough.  Then Dick and I had a day of walking in the West MacDonnells, doing a few short walks along parts of the Larapinta Trail.

Our time in Alice was good for phone calls, paperwork, laundry, shopping, eating out and van cleaning, as well as some pampering for Christine and I at Phuongs Nails.  The big task however was to get both vehicles repaired.  We got our fuel tank leaks welded and C&C got a new gearbox. We all got stocked up for more travels and then celebrated our last night together at an Italian restaurant.  C&C headed back to their home in north Queensland and we headed down south towards the Painted Desert.

As we drove south down the Stuart Highway we met continuous convoys of caravans heading north. We stopped at the Henbury Meteorite Conservation Park to see the Henbury Craters, not as large as the Wolfe Creek Craters, but study of their complex geological structure has helped to intrepret features on Mars and US astronauts once visited the craters in preparation for moon landings.  We never know what we will see out here!  Did the 1.5 km walk around four craters and had lunch before driving down the highway to a free camp at Agnes Creek.  Am reading a very interesting book, Stuart’s Tracks by John Bailey, which is about the explorations of John Stuart who discovered and named much of the land in the areas we are visiting.  Improving my knowledge of early Australian history immensely.

Driving down the highway I noticed a warning light on the dash.  It looked like a fuel pump but we had filled up, so we got out the trusty manual and discovered it was the fuel filter light.  Given Dick’s thorough preparations he had a spare fuel filter and was able to change it and it all worked – Hurray! Left the bitumen and headed for Arckaringa Station, home of the Painted Desert.  Got some lovely late afternoon photos as we did a 2-3 km walk in the stunning Painted Desert.  Having great sunny days and cool nights (heater time).

Then it was all corrugated, dirt roads to Dalhousie Springs.  We arrived at 3pm intending to swim and move on, but it was so pleasant in the springs – a large area of warm, comfortable hot thermal water ~150 meters across, with swimming noodles to borrow; so we decided to camp there. The next day literally started with a bang – as Dick sprayed his shaver cleaner on his razor while I had three burners going cooking breakfast.  I heard a bang, turned around and saw Dick fall back and I saw a fire on his razor.  The cleaning fluid fumes burst into flames and burned the hair on both of Dick’s arms and hands.  Fortunately he had a lucky escape and some cold water on the arms seemed to fix him up.  We enjoyed another hour lounging in the hot springs and did the 2km circuit walk around the springs before heading off to Mt Dare.  We both thought that Dalhousie Springs were the nicest hot springs we have been in (even better than Bitter Springs and they were really nice).  The 70km drive to Mt Dare took 2 hours, a reflection of the rough roads; lots of rocks, deep corrugations and some sandy sections.  Decided to treat ourselves with dinner in the hotel, as it exists to serve the travelling public, especially people crossing or finishing a Simpson Desert trip. Also bought some of the most expensive diesel in Australia at $2.45 per litre.

More corrugated roads took us to Old Andado, a heritage listed homestead, that used to be home to Molly Clarke, an amazing pioneer woman.  Molly’s place was kept as it was originally, to show people how the pioneers lived in the outback.  She also established the National Pioneer Womens Hall of Fame in Alice Springs in 1993.  The next stop was the Mac Clarke (husband of Molly) Conservation Reserve, which was established to protect about 1000 mature Waddywood (acacia peuce) trees.  These are rare trees of the arid zone found only in three places in Australia (also Birdsville and Boulia). Without trying we sometimes end up driving too late in the day, and this was a case in point. Hurrying to find a free camp before the sun set and driving into the sun on corrugated roads – good thing Dick was driving! No other traffic but we did drive into a herd of about 50 cattle blocking the road and in no hurry to move.  When they did charge off, they kicked up so much dust we couldn’t see a thing for about five minutes. Just as the sun set we found a lovely free camp at the edge of the Arookara Range.

The next day saw more rough roads with lots of deep sand as we headed for Santa Theresa, an aboriginal community with a beautiful Catholic Church richly decorated with striking aboriginal wall murals. Enjoyed visiting their art centre, Keringke Arts, with their bright, colorful and very attractive ceramics and paintings.  Checked back into a nice ensuite site at the Big Four CP in Alice and had a few days of catch up/stock up chores, van washing and internet access, without having to worry about having enough drinking water or where to dump the toilet cassette.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coincidentally we arrived in Birdsville (popln 140) a day ahead of schedule and 10 minutes ahead of our friends, Chris & Chris (C&C), who we were meeting there.  We checked into the Birdsville CP (caravan park, trailer park) and had a relaxing catch up afternoon before all dining in the famous Birdsville Pub.  Birdsville is an iconic outback town well known for a couple of key events, the Big Bash (concert) and The Birdsville races (dubbed as the Melbourne Cup of the outback).  It was here we discovered a leak in our fuel tank so we also got to know the Birdsville Roadhouse garage.  They made us unload EVERYTHING in the van to reduce the weight so they could put it up on the hoist. An hour later we had to put it all back as they couldn’t find the leak.  It only leaks when we are quite full so we will carry on and hope for the best!

Of course the ‘must see’ is Big Red, at 40 metres high (130 feet) its the largest of the 1,140 sand dunes in the Simpson Desert, about 35 kilometers from Birdsville.  We started with a drive up and over Little Red, and needed two goes to get back over it. Then we tackled Big Red and Dick drove us to the top quite easily.  We were the only ones there and felt great enjoying those spectacular views.  We could see a couple of 4WDs coming across from the Simpson Desert, and unfortunately we were almost in their way as they did the big drive up to the top. I got Dick to back up and all of a sudden we were stuck in the soft sand on top of Big Red.  Two great guys and Dick did a lot of work with Maxx tracks and shovels, and others helped push; and we got out.  Learned the lesson that we should always park facing downhill on a sand dune.  I’m not sure what’s happening to me as I was so inspired by our adventures on Big Red that I wrote a song about it.  Possibly the remote outback, corrugated roads and flies are doing strange things to my head.  Song follows at the end of this post.

We met another couple with an Explorer MH (motor home) like us, and then on the road we met another one; very unusual as there are less than 200 made so far.  Leaving Birdsville with C&C we followed the 517 km Birdsville Track.  These “tracks” were legendary stock routes during the time that inland Australia was settled; and long before that they were ancient aboriginal trade routes.  Not much to see on that drive but did stop at the one pub on the route and had an ice cream before camping at a free camp (with flushing toilets) at the side of the road. Funny what you see driving a road in the middle of nowhere – we passed a guy cycling from Adelaide to Port Hedland (>3000 kms) and a walker pushing a trolley the length of the Birdsville Track. This is desert so it was hot in the day and cool at night. The whole area is over the Great Artesian Basin, one of the largest groundwater basins in the world, underlying 22% of the Australian continent. The Birdsville Track ends at Maree where we headed north on the Oodnadatta Track (aka String of Springs) for 617 kilometers .  The Oodnadata Track loosely follws the path of the old Ghan railway which operated along this route from 1891 until 1980 when it was replaced by a track about 100 kilometers to the west.  And we did see lots of springs along this route, including camping at Coward Springs so we could have a soak in the hot springs there.  Lots of ruins along this route; old railway sidings, settlements and Overland Telegraph repeater stations.  After a lunch stop in the William Creek pub, we camped at Lake Eyre, the lowest point in Australia at 15.2m (50 ft) below sea level.  Lake Eyre is Australia’s largest lake (969,000 hectares), and the world’s largest internally draining catchment.  Most of the time its a dry salt lake.  It floods infrequently but when it does it is considered one of the most spectacular sights on earth and is a haven for wildlife.  Needless to say, it was not very full when we were there even though recent rainfall in Queensland was starting to reach the lake.  Didn’t see any birdlife but did suffer from some unseen bugs that left me with bites all over my body.  Certainly not my favorite camp spot!

As we continued along the Oodnadatta Track we saw remnants from the Old Ghan rail line, including the Algebuckina bridge, which was quite an engineering feat, necessary to protect the Ghan rail line during floods. C&C developed mechanical  trouble (no third gear) so we stopped in Oodnadatta for mechanical advice.  As the pub there offerred free showers, we stayed in the free camp across the road.  Given both vehicles had problems we changed plans and took the fastest route to Alice Springs.  Got back on the highway at Marla so aired up the tyres, marking the end of 12 days on rough roads. I was happy with the new plan and glad to be back on good roads.  Some of the outback roadhouses make an effort to be an interesting stop, and most have camping facilities. Kulgera Roadhouse (the first and last pub in the Northern Territory) is known for having an aboriginal art gallery so we camped there.  Spent the afternoon watching a group of aboriginal women and men painting outside, browsing in the well-priced art gallery and having a beer in the eclectic outback pub complete with bras, hats etc hanging from the ceiling.

Our last stop before Alice Springs was Rainbow Valley, where colorful sandstone cliffs of reds, yellows and whites, surround a clay pan. Its a lovely campground and great for photography.  One of our favorite spots. From there it was a short drive to Alice Springs, where we are hoping to get both vehicles repaired, and enjoy some of the creature comforts of being in a large town. I’ll end this post with my song about our adventure on Big Red.

ON TOP OF BIG RED  [It is sung to the tune of ‘On top of Spagetti’ aka ‘On top of old Smoky’]

On top of Big Red,  all covered with flies

I lost my excitement, although we were very high.

The wheels turned in the sand, and then we were stuck

and the only way we got out, was some guys in a truck.

They got out the shovels, and then the Maxx tracks

Lots of digging and pushing, from six guys at the back.

And soon it was over, We could drive ourselves out

The “American couple”, were ready to shout.

Translation- Maxx tracks are long plastic slabs that go under wheels to give more traction in soft ground. Our friends overheard people referring to us as ‘The American couple’ and to shout is to buy a round of drinks in the pub.