Exploring the Amazing Atherton Tablelands

After spending one night in the Atherton Tablelands three years ago, we decided to have a real good look around and almost three weeks later we are still here.  Its been a lovely area to explore with so much variety in a compact area and extremely well set up for visitors with lots of great places to camp or stay.  Its known for agriculture and we think you’d be hard pressed to find another area in Australia that produces the following: fruit and veg, dairy, nuts, tropical fruits, beef, honey, wine, liquors, whiskey, tea, coffee and of course, chocolate!

We’ve done heaps of walks, camped in 8 different campsites and visited lots of interesting places -including some on a food theme (ie two dairies, an ice creamery, coffee, chocolate and a tea plantation), some man-made sights (gems and history) and amazing nature (plants, animals, hot springs and waterfalls) .  The photos below tell the story.

Looking for tree kangaroos as we walked along the river at Bonadio campsite, our first campsite. The area had a small patch of Mabi forest; these are critically endangered and only found in the Atherton Tablelands or one other place in Aus. Tree kangaroos live in these forests. I also looked for platypus in the river-to no avail on both accounts.
Genazanno Retreat, a lovely camp spot on Lake Tinaroo, and no one else around. Lake Tinaroo is a massive man-made lake of 86,500 acres with 200 km of shoreline.
On our 5 km walk around Lake Barrine, we looked up at these twin Bull Kauri’s.  These rainforest giants are over 45 m(50 yards) tall and more than 6 m (20 feet) in girth. They are the largest of Australia’s 38 conifer(pines) species and are restricted to a small area on the Atherton Tablelands. Kauris mature at 50 years and these are estimated to be over 1000 years old.
There were also lots of fig trees like this along the rainforest walk around the lake. It was a stunning walk.

 

Looking down on Lake Barrine after our walk around it. Its an ancient crater lake formed 12,000 years ago by violent volcanic eruptions.  No streams flow in or out of the lake.

 

From there we went to see ‘The Cathedral Fig Tree’. The Cathedral Fig Tree is a 500 year old green fig, aka a strangler fig. This one was named for the stately, cathedral-like formation of the roots.  It starts life in the forest canopy when a seed is dropped onto a branch by a bat or bird.  As it grows it sends out long, cable-like roots; some descend to the ground and others encircle the host tree, which eventually dies.
Having me in the photo shows the relative size of the tree. The crown extends over 2000 square metres (2 Olympic swimming pools) and scientists estimate the full load of leaves at 1000 kg (weight of a small car).

In Yungaburra, which is a lovely, quaint village, we did the Peterson Creek 4 km walking track, along a wildlife corridor replanted by volunteers in 1998 and still maintained by volunteers.  Got a stiff neck from trying to see a tree kangaroo there (no luck).

We did see 3 platypus in the creek, without even looking too hard, and we saw lots of turtles.

THE HUNT FOR A TREE KANGAROO CONTINUES – We’d heard that they have two tree kangaroos at the Nerada Tea Plantation, so we headed off.  On the drive through some back roads, an oncoming car stopped us and said there was a tree kangaroo on the road.

Here is ‘our own in the wild’ tree kangaroo!!!! SO EXCITING TO SEE, especially as I had never heard of them before.
We caught up to him as he was running along the road and I got out just as he was crossing the road. He didn’t seem afraid of me and then even started walking towards me. I backed up as I didn’t want to be mistaken for a tree!
Here is a close up, from when he stopped and had a good look at me.  He is a Lumholz’s Tree-kangaroo, only found in FNQ (far north Queensland), from Daintree River to Herbert River gorge, most common in rainforest fragments in the Atherton Tablelands.  I was surprised at how excited I got seeing this guy close up in the wild.

MORE INFO ON TREE-KANGAROOS – Although aboriginal people knew them all along, they were first found by a Norwegian naturalist, Lumholz in 1882. Size – 0.5 m tall, av weight 7kg and a long tail (600-700mm).  They are not nocturnal so active day and night (cathemeral), and they are the only kangaroos that can “walk” or move each foot independently forwards and backwards bipedal (which is up on backlegs and helps when climbing).  After habitat loss, the biggest threats to them are being hit by cars or killed by dogs when moving on the ground between trees or forests.

The only other species of tree-kangaroo in Aus is called Bennetts Tree Kangaroo and it lives from the Daintree to Cooktown and is larger.  There are 14 other species in PNG (Papua New Guinea).  After the excitement of our personal sighting, we continued on to the Nerada Tea plantation and saw one of their ‘almost pet‘ ones very high up in a tree near the cafe. All we could see was the back of him – no excitement there!  We missed out on the tour of the tea plantation (Nerada is the largest supplier of tea in Aus) so continued on to Gallo Dairyland and indulged in extravagant cheese, chocolate, and ice cream purchases.

Lake Eacham is another crater lake, formed 10,000 years ago. It is a popular swimming hole, in spite of the existence of a resident freshwater croc. We did the 3 km rainforest walk around the lake.
Dinner Falls feature on the top 10 Waterfall lists so we dd the 1.3 km walk to check them out.
Mt Hypipamee Crater, an impressive volcanic pipe, is close to the falls so we had another look at it.
Decided to spend the weekend at Innot Hot Springs and camped by a billabong with lots of birdlife.
We enjoyed a couple of sessions in the hot spring pools in the park, but they were not inspiring to photograph.  However, the local pub was!
This band have played in that pub every Saturday night for the last 10 years. We enjoyed dinner and their music. First live music we have seen for months!
Its hard not to visit waterfalls when travelling in the Tablelands.We’d seen 5 on our visit in 2017 so checked out different ones this time and saw 3 in one day -Pepina, Souita and Mungalli Falls [the highest waterfall in the Tablelands and pictured here]
Lunch at Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy where we stocked up with yogurt, milk and cheesecake!

SOCIALIZING IN THE TABLELANDS – Even though there is less socializing happening during these times, we seem to still meet fellow travellers and enjoy sharing stories, playing ukes, and playing games. Ran into fellow Explorer owners, Jeff and Sue, in a Herbeton car park, had drinks with the neighbors, Wendy & Colin, in a Caravan Park (CP) on Lake Tinaroo, had a great uke playing session with Shelley in a Mareeba CP and then enjoyed catching up with Geoff & Vicki and learning a new game, Sequence, with them.

The Historic Village at Herbeton is the largest privately owned historic village in Aus and its set within 16 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds.  Its a living museum experience and has been laid out to resemble a tin mining town with a garage, newspaper office, butchers, chemist, grocery store, frock salon, toy shop, coach house, tractor shed, radio store and tool shed; all stocked with period wares.

In 2008 the owners, Craig and Connie Kimberley were on a driving holiday and spotted the closed attraction.  Five months later, they owned it and undertook extensive restoration and repair projects to reflect everyday life in FNQ as it was from the 1880’s onwards.

Demonstrations are put on daily and we got to see the printing one.  In a room full of old restored presses, this gentleman (an ex-printer) gave a really informative session on the origins of printing, starting with Gutenberg.  He explained how the machines worked and how the early typefaces were developed, reflecting changes in the alphabet and the English language over the years.
Looking through old magazines and papers in this place reminded me that some things never really change – they featured stories on the royals, travel etc. But then when I got to the Chemist and it was full laxatives, tonics, hair restorer and other magic cures; it all felt like same/same with different packaging.
In the main street of Atherton behind this ‘kitchey-looking’ facade, lies one of the largest mineral collections in Australia, featuring more than 600 specimens, including rare crystals, gemstones and fossils.  This private collection is the passion, obsession and life’s work of Rene Boissevain, who built the Crystal Caves in 1987 to house his collection in a way that people can photograph and touch the specimens.
We did the self-guided tour thru tunnels and grottos with million year old natural crystals and prehistoric fossils from around the world.  Learned about geodes, spherical rock structures with an internal cavity lined with mineral materials such as tiny quartz crystals, agate, amethyst, calcite etc
This is the Empress of Uruguay, the world’s largest amethyst geode (3.27 m high & 2.5 tonnes).  It was discovered in Uruguay in 2007. Rene remortgaged his home to pay US$120,000 for this geode.  It took 3 months to excavate it out of solid basalt.  In the photo you can see that it is surrounded by a Rose Quartz brook, built using 4 tonnes of Brazilian Rose Quartz boulders.  Rose Quartz is the stone of love – it must be given and received with love.  If it is stolen, you will be cursed with ‘bad love’.

 

Granite Gorge is a nature park/camping area close to Mareeba.  We went for the walks through the gorge but lots of people go for the animals.  Mareeba Rock Wallabies were first identified as a rare new species at the Gorge in 1996. You can see groups of up to 50 late in the afternoon. They live in the boulders and are very comfortable coming up to people, looking for food.  I had to try hard to avoid them.  There are about five in the top right corner. The peacocks were also very tame and we even saw this one showing off his finery.
This Mareeba wallaby was happy to be with us when we were on our walk on the boulders.
We tackled the gorge walks but we found the grade 4 section was a bit hard for us, and we didn’t even get to the really hard bit when we turned around. The man at the desk told us it was a “young persons” walk. Many of the rock formations are said to look like animals.
We then got told about an easy way to get to the end of the gorge, bypassing the difficult rock scramble; so we still got to see the end of of the gorge, which is about 1 km long.  The rock to our left in the photo is called whale rock.  You might see his eye and mouth.  It was an awesome landscape produced by volcanic activity.  There is also a dark side to the gorge as people have been injured or drowned in the stream and caves that flow under the boulders.
Davies Creek National Park with its walks and waterfalls was calling us.  For two days we had this lovely secluded campsite on a beautiful creek.
Decided to tackle the Turtle Rock trail, 8 km, graded difficult. We almost got to the top but I decided it was too difficult, so we turned around.  Lots of steep boulder scrambling, we were quite high up (had climbed 290m), and there was no one else around! Dick got over this section but we had no idea what else was ahead. Still we did 6.5 km over 4 hours with a long lunch stop,
Lined up three walks (5.5 km) for the next day. Davies Creek Falls circuit had a good waterfall and a lovely creek area. The Bunda Bibandji rock art was hard to see and the Emerald Creek Falls pictured here were impressive.  Our waterfall collection is growing.
The map of our travels in the Atherton Tablelands (specially included for Curt!)

PS – WE LOVE OUR BOOTS!!! They’ve looked after us well and taken us hundreds of kilometers into interesting places.

 

2 thoughts on “Exploring the Amazing Atherton Tablelands

  1. The Atherton sounds wonderful Pat and Dick. The photos are lovely and the waterfalls look great. I also love the crater lake – beautiful. BUT…. the tree kangaroo is by far the highlight for this reader. Talk about serendipity! 😀
    Have a safe and great remainder of your trip.
    L
    F

  2. All I can say is WOW. What a wonderful adventure you two are having. I have been to a few of the Atherton Tablelands spots and have been to Lake Barrine. One of Anna’s girlfriends at Port Macquarie grew up there. Keep on keeping safe. All good here so far. Lots of love to you both from Jeanette xxx

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