Machu Picchu, Cusco and living in high altitude

 

Having heard so much about Machu Picchu (MP) and having seen the photos, it was great to finally get to experience it ourselves.  Our  time in Peru started with a rest day in Sacred Valley, which we badly needed both to recover from Galapagos and to acclimatize to the higher altitude.  Neither of us felt great or had any energy.  A short walk to the market in the town was all we could manage. And we were taking our altitude pills, drinking cocoa tea and even eating cocoa candies. Thanks to TripAdvisor we found a very good restaurant on the train platform so that improved the mood.

 

In the market in Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru. There is no way we could have climbed up to explore the Inca ruins above the town, as hundreds of other people were doing.

 

After taking the scenic Vistadome train to Agua Caliente and checking into our hotel, we had quite a hairy bus ride up a very windy mountain road.

 

The bus ride up to Machu Picchu.  There was a walking trail up but it looked hard, lots of stairs and it was raining, so worth standing in line for a bus.

We had a passionate guide who was determined that we would learn her standard routine spiel about the history of MP, whether we were interested or not. Mostly we were interested and Dick asked lots of questions.  In brief, MP was started by the Inca’s in 1450 and building continued for 90 years to 1540 when the Spanish came.  It was rediscovered by the West by Prof Hiram Bingham in 1911, and was largely overgrown then.  Bingham took lots of photos and realized it was a special place.  Of course the locals already knew it was there and were farming parts of it.  We spent 3 hours walking around the lower part of the city.  In the peak season 7000 people per day visit.  We probably only visited it with 4000 others but that was enough.  The rain curbed our enthusiasm somewhat but the guide insisted we learn about all the important places and how the people lived there. Both of us were tired (and wet) as we’d climbed up and down so many stairs all afternoon in the rain.

 

Our first view of MP
Inside some of the buildings.  Our guide couldn’t help herself from pushing in the photos, as she explained the elaborate and still effective drainage system as well as the building techniques.

 

More info on the structure, the door shapes and the views afforded.

 

Another view of the areas we walked around, and how steep it all is.

Our Day 2 at MP was much better.  No guide, better weather and we’d both had a much needed good sleep. Also we had a plan to see the upper sections that afforded the good views. Even got to the upper guardhouse and took some pics before it started to drizzle.

 

The view from the upper guardhouse
Happy to be there and enjoy the views in better weather

 

Contemplating the view as the clouds roll in

 

The classic shot
A panorama view

 

Another classic view from somewhat higher up.
We did a nice hike to the Inca gate.  The gate is closed by removing the boards we can see across the chasm.
The Inca gate was on a very steep cliff
Great views along the path

 

 

Our classic kissing photo in special places, and Machu Picchu was a very special place.

 

 

The train trip back included river views, a performance by the staff as well as a fashion parade promoting Peruvian alpaca garments (exclusive to the train passengers).  Lots of music and dancing by this guy.  We didn’t really understand  what was going on, but it was entertaining.  Thankfully he didn’t pick me to dance with him.

Missed our transfer guide when we got off the train (probably our fault as we just pushed thru the crowds), but found him eventually and endured a 2 hour drive again on those windy roads to Cusco in the dark.  Not feeling good and not happy. A good sleep always helps but we probably weren’t ready for a 4.5 hour guided tour of Cusco at 1pm the next day.  Guide knew his stuff but had no people skills.  Saw lots and learned about the history but no break and no food stop did not go over well. Probably not feeling well at the high altitude also colored my impressions.

 

The view of Sacsayhuaman (sexy woman or satiated condor). This was an Inca temple and the site of a battle with the Spanish where 168 Spanish killed 600 Incas and left their bodies to rot in the field we were standing in.  Condors ate the flesh of the dead until they were satiated, hence the name.
There’s not much left of the temples etc as the Spanish used this special place as a quarry and took the good stones to Cusco to use to build their churches.

 

This viewpoint at Sacsayhuaman affords great views of Cusco nestled in the mountains.

Interesting to learn about the Inca and Spanish periods in Cusco.  We saw more archeological ruins before visiting the Basilica Catherdral, which included the first and last churches built by the Spaniards.  In the Spanish churches our guide delighted in showing us famous paintings that included Inca symbols, unbeknownst to the Spanish who did all in their power to destroy the Inca culture.  It sounded like the Inca’s seemed to leverage the skills and knowledge of the civilizations they conquered (ie in engineering, medicine, architecture etc) in contrast to the approach of the Spanish who destroyed the buildings, culture and religion and enslaved the indigenous people.  Today Cusco feels very old with its narrow cobblestone streets and old stone buildings. The population is 500,000 and 65% work in tourism.

 

A map of the Inca territory.  The Incas built 45,000 kms of trails throughout their territory (The Inca Trail).  We saw some parts of it as we drove around Cusco, which was the Inca capital.

 

A replica of The Golden Star Map from the Inca’s Temple of the Sun.

 

A Spanish church we visited in Cusco

 

On the streets of Cusco. Helen wanted this picture as she didn’t think I would do one.

 

More fun on the streets of Cusco. So many shoeshine guys wanted to shine Dick’s dirty shoes that he finally gave in. The price started at 1 Sola but by the time he finished adding lots of special stuff, it went to 20; and in the end we gave him 10!

 

 

Got caught in a hailstorm but it didn’t dampen our spirits as we enjoyed having a free day to wander around Cusco, and it was easy to buy ponchos in the street.

 

Had some nice food in Cusco, including good tapas and then a meal of crispy guinea pig at our friend Ronny’s recommended restaurant.
But the chocolate balloon dessert was the best!