Galapagos – unique animals, volcanoes & local history

Its almost overwhelming to the senses to think back on all we saw, did and learned on our 8 day Galapagos Cruise on the luxury yacht, Natural Paradise.  Each day involved at least three expeditions (snorkelling, hiking, panga/zodiac trips) with not much rest in between, and lots of socializing with our 14 other passengers (8 American women celebrating a 60th birthday, a young American couple and 4 other Aussies).  We had a nice cabin on the boat, the food was excellant and catered for our gluten free diet, our tour guide was exceptional and the whole crew were very accommodating.

This was our route for 8 days, so lots of islands to visit.  Mostly the seas were ok but we had a few rough nights when travelling through the open ocean sections.

 

This was the boat, Natural Paradise, loading us on to the pangas for our excursions. Our balcony was the one on the upper left.

 

This was our cabin, note the towels shaped like stingrays.
Another view of our cabin looking out to the balcony

 

Each day we visited different islands and generally saw different birds, animals and landforms on each.  There were so many highlights that we’re just including some of the favorite photos to tell the story.

 

This was a typical schedule; at least 3 or 4 expeditions each day.

 

Blue-footed boobies were everywhere

 

Seeing a flock of boobies diving for fish was just amazing
Marine iguanas were everywhere and often hanging around together in a pile.  You can see a volcano in the background.
Here’s a close up of a marine iguana

 

 

And here’s his cousin the land iguana

 

We did see a few land tortoises in the wild
And we saw more land tortoises in the Breeding Centre.  Due to hunting the land tortoises were almost extinct in these islands.  At one point four males and four females were left and taken to the Breeding Centre where they have produced offspring.

 

Plus lots of sea turtles in the water. Dick made good use of an underwater camera

 

Dick even got this photo of a flightless cormorant attacking one of our group and trying to get her Go-Pro.  It also tried to take Dick’s camera in a tug of war with him.

 

Sea lions were everywhere, with lots of babies
One even attempted to charge us when we got too close

 

Dick swam with lots of sea lions

 

Saw lots of golden rays and eagle rays in a mangrove area
A few flamingos on a shallow lake, part of a colony of about 20 who live there.

 

Lots of colorful crabs all over the rocks

 

Waved Albatrosses (aka Galapagos Albatrosses) were doing their courtship dance, had chicks with them and also used the cliff as their runway for taking off in flight.  Interesting to watch.

 

Masses of colorful fish in the sea, plus one shark was spotted by Dick

 

I even snorkelled a few times (its not my forte) and saw lots of fish and turtles.

 

Lots of birds everywhere

 

A moulting fairy penguin – the process takes two weeks to complete.

 

 

 

This caldera is the second largest one in the world and its on an island with five volcanoes.  We did a 6km return walk to see it.

 

We also did lots of hikes on the volcanic islands and went back and forth in the trusty pangas.

 

One of our many remote anchorages

 

 

We learned about the local postal system at Post Office Bay on Floreanna Island.  Our guide Malena  was explaining that here people leave mail (no stamp required) for hand delivery by other passers by.  The tradition is that you take any mail destined for where you are going or living and you hand deliver it.  This custom started a long time ago and appears to be still operating.  I left a postcard for Amy so it will be interesting to see if it ever arrives.  We didn’t take any mail as there wasn’t any for our part of Sydney.

We learned a lot about the early Europen settlement on Floreanna Island – lots of sex, murder and intrigue involved.  Our education included a video made about those early characters, mostly dissatisfied Europeans looking for a new paradise in the 1930’s.

 

Saw beautiful sunsets
And enjoyed great company

 

And were well looked after by the crew

 

Happy smiles during another panga ride; sums up the trip.

 

Quito, Ecuador and a taste of altitude

 

Quito was an unexpected pleasant surprise, as initially we wondered how we would fill the time there before our next adventure. As it turned out, we needed a rest and a chance to catch up on sleep, as well as to adjust to the altitude change. Quito is at an altitude of 2,850 m (9,350 feet) and as soon as we got to our hotel room I crashed. Skipped lunch, got up for dinner and then more sleep. Our hotel was in the old city, on an interesting street. We had a 3 hour walking tour organized for our second day there so had to get going by 9am. Warned our guide we would be slow but managed to get a good orientation and learn about the city as we walked through famous squares and visited significant churches. Fortunately we drove up to Panecillo Mirador, the largest aluminum monument in the world, which sits atop of a famous hill and has great views of Quito. We were too tired to go in but enjoyed the view. We had the same guide who collected us from the airport, did the walking tour, took us to Cotopaxi and then back to the airport; so he was our ontap source for all questions. This included my toilet question – do we put the loo paper in the bin for all toilets in Ecuador? The answer was a very definite “yes” as the sewer systems are not built to take toilet paper. In many toilets you also have to get the paper from a central dispenser before you go into the cubicle – worth catching on to that one early. Doing lots of observing to learn the local customs.

After a rest and lunch we ventured out on our own to do more exploring, buy snacks (incl artisan chocolate) and get ice cream at a place that had been recommended.  After tasting many flavors and having the whole shop help in translating for us, I got blackberry and Dick got ‘dog poop’ ice cream.  Helen was worried that we were taken advantage of but our guide confirmed it was a popular flavor (and I don’t mean the blackberry!).  Probably walked about 5 k’s that day so needed another rest til 9pm before a quick dinner in the hotel.  Being gluten free is not easy but the staff at our hotel were so nice and made us special pan de yuca (small bread rolls made from cassava and cheese and served hot – delicious).

As normally happens on holiday, Dick’s glasses broke again (the first time was on the canoe on the Napo River and we found the screw and the engineer fixed them; but maybe not so well), so we had a reason to find an optician.  Went to a modern mall and we could have been anywhere in the world.  The food court was full of American chains and there were lots of US clothing retailers there. The shop looked like OPSM in Sydney and they fixed his glasses.  Our taxi driver very effectively used Google Translate to converse with us. The other purpose of this outing was to go up the cable car – Telefetico, to see the views and to gauge how we coped with an altitude of 4050 m (13,300 feet) above sea level.  We even managd to walk around a bit at the top and enjoy great views of Quito and the Andes mountains surrounding the city. On the way down in the cable car we met a local family who drove us back to our hotel.  That was so nice of them and it gave us a chance to talk to locals.

Our next jaunt was to Cotopaxi National Park(NP), the second most visited NP in Ecuador after Galapagos, and home to the Cotopaxi Volcano (5897m/19,350 feet high), about 2 hours drive from Quito.  In spite of some trepidation about the altitude, we opted to try the hike up Cotopaxi.  The road up the mountain was rough, narrow and zigzagged all the way to the carpark at 4600 m altitude (15,100 feet).  By this time we were chewing our coca leaves furiously, a local cure for altitude sickness. We rugged up and started the climb to the Refuge (4800 m, 15,750 feet).  It was supposed to take an hour but we were slow and needed to stop lots so after half an hour we turned back. Both of us felt good that we got that far, and happy to turn back especially as we both had very tingly fingers on the drive down the mountain.  We also visited a lagoon in the NP that is disappearing due to climate change and we met our Swiss friends from the Amazon cruise in the NP.

Our time in Quito finished with a 4:15am pickup for our flight to Galapagos.  We quite enjoyed the city and our hotel who sent us off with a breakfast box which included hot pan de yuca.

 

Night life in the street outside our hotel

 

Lots of music in the street including a violin player outside our door

 

Lots of hawkers approached us as we did our city walking tour, and our guide seemed to know many of them.
Dick had never seen a busker in a suit before, and there were lots of buskers in Old Quito

 

Panecillo Mirador, the largest aluminum monument in the world
The very large bed in our hotel room.  We thought it was unusual but turns out this is the standard matrimonial size bed.

 

Dick in the Independence Plaza in front of the main government building on a Sunday afternoon
Lots of life in the plaza

 

Dick holding his ‘Dog Poop’ ice cream
At the top of the cable car where we climbed a bit higher
Quito is surrounded by the Andes mountains and Ecuador has the most volcanoes of any country in South America
The view of Quito from above the cable car
Great mountain views up there
Coming down in the cable car with the nice family we met who drove us home.  They had spent 6 hours hiking at the top of the mountain.
Our first view of Cotopaxi

 

Ready to climb up to the Refuge, the red roofed building in the distance
Still smiling although it was hard to breathe and we were getting tired and not getting too far up the mountain.
The view from the mountain and the windy road we had to drive up to the car park.