Fascinating History in Far North Qld & Fun with Friends

 

We had not heard of Paronella Park until recently when it was raved about by a couple of different groups of people. Although we are not usually attracted to manmade settings, this sounded different and interesting – AND IT WAS!
The gateway to Paronella Park – a pleasant surprise just inland from Innisfail.

The park embodies the story of one man, Jose Paronella, and his dream to build a castle in Australia.  Jose arrived in Australia from Spain in 1913.  He worked in copper mining and cane cutting before creating his wealth by buying land, developing it and selling it as cane farms.  It is a great story which is now being made into a movie and has already been published in a book.  Its a family saga as well as a historical update on life in far north Queensland; from Jose’s arrival in 1913 and his family’s development and management of the park until 1977, to the current owners’ endeavours from 1993 to the present day.

Short version timeline -1913 – Jose arrives in Aus and makes a fortune. 1924 – Jose returns to Spain to his fiancee who he did not write to the 11 years he was away. After 6 years she married another, so Jose married her younger sister. After a year of touring around Europe, they returned to Aus.1929 – Jose bought the land of his dreams and began building. They built their cottage, the grand staircase, entertainment area and cafe, movie theatre/ballroom (with a ball of mirrors) , a park (planted more than 7000 trees including the Avenue of Kauris) around a lake and a waterfall.  1933 – Jose built North Queensland’s first hydro electric plant to power his 13 acre park. The local region got electricity in the 1960’s and Jose had it at his park in the 1930’s.1935 – Paronella Park opened to the public!

Jose first built the grand 47 step staircase to shift building materials between the lower and upper level.  This was us looking up the staircase we were about to climb up.

 

These signs are all around the park and help to explain what you’re seeing.
Here is the Kauri Avenue. Very impressive.  More than 7000 trees were planted when they set up the Park.
The view of the castle, as it is now.

Various natural disasters impacted the park: logs from an upstream clearing swept thru and destroyed the refreshment rooms (1946), a fire swept thru the Castle (1979), Cyclone Winifred hit (1986), Cyclone Larry (2006), Cyclone Yasi (2011).

1948 – Jose died. Jose’s family continued to run the park until it was sold in 1977.

1993 – Mark and Judy Evans discovered and bought the almost lost park that had been abandoned for many years.  They envisaged reviving Jose’s dream.

2009 – The original hydro turbine was refurbished (in Germany). All electricity at the park comes from the waterfall via the 1930’s turbine.

2009 – Paronella Park was voted No. 1 “Must Do” in Queensland by over 150,000 people in an RACQ ‘Must Do’ promotion.

We did the day tour and the night tour.  The day tour gave us the history and a tour of all the park and the night tour gave us a light and music show.

On the day tour we saw Teresa Falls, named after Jose’s daughter, and the owner of the park insisted on taking this picture for us.  The water is from a spring 50m upstream which was the Park’s water supply until the 1990’s.
Seeing the falls lit up at night was impressive.
The remains of the entertainment area which is lit at night now, and was originally a movie theatre that transformed on weekends into a huge ballroom with live bands and featured a massive ball of mirrors.
This lighting really captures the feeling of being at a castle.  Special music was recorded for these nightly performances by The String Family (a Wollongong band) and played during the light show as we sat in the middle of this wonderful Park in the darkness.

In keeping with our past pattern, we headed for another beach camp and ended up in the Russell River NP at Graham Range campground; where walking on the beach is the only activity on offer.  It was a good opportunity to deal with catchup projects, emails, regular maintenance, blog work and Uke practices etc. After 3 nights I was very ready to leave!

The beach looked nice but this was at low tide and even then it was not good for walking on as the beach was very sloping.
It was nice and sunny during our NP stay; and we are trying to see what its like living outside more.

Next stop was Wonga Beach for a visit with Chris and Chris.  It felt a bit like coming home! We enjoyed quite a few days of generous hospitality in their lovely home.  Even got to attend a neighbor’s party,  enjoy lunch out, go clothes shopping in Port Douglas and get my hair cut.  Were also spoiled with a day trip to Cape Tribulation where we saw lots of beautiful places we wouldn’t have found on our own.

Off to a party with Chris and Chris!
Enjoying a beautiful walk on Cape Tribulation beach.
Our lunchtime restaurant, set high up in the treetops, probably has one of the best coastal views in Australia. Hard to do it justice in a photo.

Chris and Chris joined us for a few days camping, so our little convoy headed off to Chillagoe via Mareeba and a lunch stop in Dimbulah.  When we arrived at the Chillagoe Observatory and Eco Lodge, we were greeted as VIP’s by the owner, Ian Porter, who is an old friend of David Ridings, the owner of Explorer Motorhomes.  Ian was very helpful with lots of info on where to go etc.

We had a nice camp spot under a big tree. That’s C&C’s camper and the friendly resident peacock, called Andrew.
We took a photo with the owners of the park to send back to our friends at Explorer (and they appreciated it).
Our exploring around Chillagoe took us to Mungana where we saw this rock art.
The limestone bluffs behind Chris and Dick were formed from coral reefs deposited in a shallow sea and intensely folded 400 million years ago.
From there we did a self-guided walk through The Archways, a semi-open cave system.
It was interesting to see the ruins of the Chillagoe Smelters which operated from 1901-1943; and produced 60,000 tonnes of copper, 50,000 tonnes of lead, 6,500,000 ounces of silver and 175,000 ounces of gold & never made a profit in any year of production. BUT there was a significant flow-on effect for regional employment and the growth of heavy industry in North Queensland.
Our last scenic stop of the day was Balancing Rock, which is a limestone outcrop, reached by a bit of a scramble up the hill.

Our next camp was at Kingsborough, which originally was a significant township on the Hodgkinson River, where gold was discovered in 1876.  By the 1880’s that general area was reported to have had a population of 10,000.  Very interesting to imagine what was once there, when today there is one station where we stayed and lots of abandoned mining equipment.  

This photo was taken from a cliff overlooking Kingsborough, which is now a lush green oasis on the river as it has been lovingly cared for by the same man for over 30 years. Some people stay there while they are panning for gold in the river area.
As it was so beautiful, quiet and relaxing; we spent two nights there on the riverbank.  Then C&C headed for home.
We drove to Mt Mulligan, which is 18 km long and rises 400 m from the surrounding landscape.  This photo was taken from about 10 kms from the mountain.  It is hard to get it all in one photo.

Evidence of aboriginal habitation at Mt Mulligan dates back 37,000 years making it the oldest dated site in Queensland.  Another sorry history here as from the 1880’s to the 1950’s, the aboriginal people were massacred or forcibly removed.  Some returned to country in 1930-1945 and native title rights were recognised in 2012.

This is the site of the town of Mt Mulligan which is now a ghost town, but the streets and locations of buildings in the original settlement are identified. It was too hot, and the grass was too overgrown, for us to wander around the remains of the town.  This was the closest we could get to the mountain as it is on private property and the owners have developed a luxury lodge on the site.

Three coal seams sere mined from 1914-1958 and by 1921 Mt Mulligan was a township of 300 people.  A railway to Dimbulah was built in 1915.  On 19 September 1921 a coal dust explosion ripped through the mine and the 75 men in it were killed.  This was the third largest mining disaster in Australia’s history.  The mine closed in 1957 and the town was abandoned in 1958.

Deciding that we wanted to see more caves, we headed back to Chillagoe.

Back to the Eco Lodge for another night and an end of day swim in as it was a +30C day.

In spite of travel restrictions and social distancing, the Chillagoe Caves are busier than normal, even taking into account smaller tour numbers.  We managed to book a guided afternoon tour and then had time to do a self-guided tour, have lunch and a rest, before the guided tour.  It was 34C so quite draining outside.

This was going into Pompeii Cave, graded difficult, self- guided and there was no one else around. It started with clambering down a steep slope. We went very slowly trying hard to be careful and find a way to navigate down into the unknown.
We did need our head torches and managed to make slow but safe progress.
We got to a large open area and probably could have gone further down, but didn’t want to push our luck. Some interesting fossils on the roof of the chamber we were in.  Also there were lots of bats in this cave.
The guided tour of Trezkinn Cave involved lots of stairs, both inside and outside. We learned all about stalagmites and stalagtites, and saw beautiful examples throughout the cave. The red stains are caused by iron oxides.
This cluster of stalagtites is called ‘The Chandelier’, and is the main feature of this cave.

By the end of the tour we figured we had “done the caves” and were ready to move on.  

Overnighted in a lovely free camp on the side of the road near a creek. One of the few free camps we’ve stayed in this trip.
This map shows the route and places visited in this post.

2020 Mystery Tour – Hervey Bay to Mission Beach

Beaches, Caves, Friends, Platypus and more….

After the excitement of seeing all those whales, we had a different kind of excitement when we left the  caravan park (CP) at Hervey Bay. A minor disagreement with the roof over the porch at the Reception of the CP caused a bit of damage to Belle and to the building roof.  However it was the kindness and help we got from strangers that made an impression on us. The CP lady referred us to repairers and when we tracked down a guy in a neighbouring town, he told us he was swamped with work but said come over.  Saturday lunch time we arrived and he saw us straight away, checked out the problem and did a patch for us that should last four months.  He spent an hour fixing our problem and asked for payment of $50. Pretty good country service and friendliness. [We did pay him more than he asked for].  That put us only slightly behind our plan for the day and we did make it to our booked campsite in Deepwater NP, just as darkness hit.

Deepwater National Park – the beach was great and we did some good walks there; including a pre-breakfast morning walk.
This was a beautiful beach for long walks – nice hard sand.
Our campsite at Deepwater.
Another great walk.
We didn’t see many animals in the NP, but this goanna paid me a visit one morning. I took the photo leaning out the window of Belle as he came close to check us out.

Next stop was Capricornia Caves, just north of Rockhampton and on the Tropic of Capricorn.

The Tropic of Capricorn lies 23.5 degrees south of the equator and marks the most southerly latitude at which the sun can appear directly overhead at noon.
On the tour of the caves we learned that they were first discovered in 1882 by a Norwegian pioneer, John Olsen, who ran them as a family business.  Another family, the Augusteyns took them over in 1988 and in 2005 a rich bone deposit of significant fossils was found.
Giant fig trees hide the opening to the caves. You can see how their roots travel everywhere in search of water.
There are only five of these ferns (tectaria devaxa fern) left in the world and they are in the caves and unlikely to survive, as the caves are ‘dry caves’ now. The surrounding ‘dry rainforest’ has adapted to the decrease in rainfall.
Opera performances are held in the large Cathedral Cave, which has great acoustics. We listened to a stunning recording of ‘Allelulia’ complete with a dramatic ‘cave style’ light show, which included complete darkness. Well worth seeing.
After that attraction we headed back to the coast and another lovely beach campsite at Carmila Beach. Managed to get in a very nice 4 km beach walk before dinner.
Woke in time to see this beautiful sunrise from my bedroom window.
That beautiful beach turned into mud flats at low tide.
Somehow Dick managed to get stuck up to his knees in the mud, and then needed to dig his crocs out of the mud. Of course we were at a place without a shower!
On the way to Eungella NP, an old favorite camp, we stopped at Finch Hatton gorge, a beautiful gorge area of lush rainforest, named after Finch Hatton, who helped to get the area saved as a national park.
As you can see here the waterfall, Araluen Cascades, had lots of water.

We returned to camp at Broken River campground in Eungella NP because its the best place we know to see platypus in the wild. We were not disappointed this time either.

We saw heaps swimming around like this.
Dick got a great shot of this guy.
Ros and Don (friends from Caloundra) happened to be travelling there as well, so we spent a fabulous day watching platypus play and enjoying spending time together.
Our campsite was right beside the river where the platypus were swimming around, so we could eat lunch by the van and watch platypus in the river.

Cape Hillsborough NP is another NP campground on the beach, but this one heavily promotes its 6am kangaroo feeding on the beach. We went to have a look at the park but mostly we needed a CP with laundry and showers.

I was very surprised how many people were excitedly watching the kangaroos on the beach. To be fair most of them seemed like overseas tourists who had never seen a kangaroo before (altho that is unlikely right now). The feeding started at 6am and I took this photo at 6:30am.

 

If you waited long enough, at least you got to see the sunrise.

After stopping at Airlie Beach so Dick could catch up with an old friend, we drove to Shute Harbor and then on to Bowen for some rest days in luxury (that means we had an ensuite site in the caravan park).

Enjoyed sunset drinks and nibbles with Ros & Don plus their friends, Anne and Craig, in front of their place in Bowen.

Spoiled ourselves with fresh prawns one day and fish and chips the next; plus a bit of tv and of course more beach walks. Somehow four days passed very quickly and we caught up on lots of phone calls, emails, blog work, ukulele practising plus we made a video birthday card for Amy.

Checking out the view from Flagstaff Lookout in Bowen.
I thought this piece of driftwood looked like a seal so got close to give him a kiss! That was the beach where our CP was located, and it was great to march out a good 5 k walk there.
Revisited another favorite spot in Townsville, a CP with a nice hot spa pool. Dick made a little wooden stand for the iphone so we can take our own selfies without looking so inept.
Had a good visit with Explorer friends, Wendy and Sandy, and gave them a tour of Belle. Always lots to talk about with Explorer friends.
Dick is trying hard to keep going with his balance classes, and since he did them by Zoom in Sydney; he is able to continue them as long as we can stop some where with internet. This time we stopped at the dam in Townsville.
I walked up to the top of the Ross River Dam wall and learned that the dam provides a water supply and flood control. At over 8km long with an average height of 27 meters, it is the longest wall of its type in Australia.
We were aiming for a camp at Bingil Bay but it was full so we drove to Mission Beach/Wongaling Beach and found a spot near the beach. Had another good beach walk, opposite Dunk Island and other smaller islands.
The campsite was fine but when we were late checking out in the morning, the owner asked us to leave the park. Dick made a smartass comment and the guy threatened to get his bulldozer and push us over.  Although it was not a nice way to leave, (and from other comments, we were not the first to encounter his rudeness), it was very unusual as we generally encounter friendly and helpful people wherever we travel.