Broken Hill (BH) was a fun place to visit, well set up for travellers and with lots to see and do.  We made the most of our day and a half there – got a new Coopers tyre for the van, had lunch at a trendy cafe, ‘The Silly Goat’, and then hit the galleries.  Broken Hill has over 20 galleries; we visited 5 in 3.5 hours.  Started with the Regional Gallery, then went to the Silver City Art Centre to see “The Big Picture” – the world’s largest painting on canvas – 100 m (300 feet) long and over 12 m (40 feet) high.  It was painted with 9 tonnes of paint, in acrylic, over 2 years in Peter Anderson’s highly realistic style.  It features natural and man made landmarks within 300 kms of BH.  I really enjoyed seeing it and its setting which was red earth, rocks, trees and scrub native to the area.  From there we visited Absalom’s gallery and admired his impressive landscape paintings which capture the essence of many outback places we have visited.  Jack Absalom came out and had a chat with us and signed a booklet I bought.  He was nice and has had an amazing life.  So sorry we didn’t get a photo with him.  He is now 91 and looking good, and one of only 2 of the 5 well known Brushmen of the Bush still alive.  From there we hurried to the Pro Hart Gallery where we met Pro Hart’s wife, enjoyed some of his video, his artwork and checked out the sculpture garden and his four Rolls Royce cars.  Racing against sunset we dashed to The Living Desert Sculptures to see the 12 sandstone sculptures at sunset.  We just caught the last of the sun going down behind the sculptures, along with lots of other people.

We camped in the Living Desert Park so I could have internet for morning phone calls.  Saw the sculptures in the daylight with no people there and then stocked up with groceries, diesel and jeans for Dick before leaving at 2:45 for the 300 km drive to White Cliffs for the music festival.  Our timing was not so good as Dick ended up doing the last hour or so in the dusk and the dark with lots of kangaroos around.  Thankfully we were ok/lucky on that drive and didn’t hit any.

White Cliffs (popln 200) is another opal mining town, where most of the people live underground.  We learned that they had a music festival in May so we decided to make that a stop on our trip.  It was good fun.  The night we arrived we had dinner in the Underground Motel before attending the evening concert of the festival there. We stayed until after 11pm watching three acts who were very good.  That indicated to us that some talented musicians were at this festival.

We stayed in the CP, had a sleep in and catchup day before the big concert started at 4pm in the hall next to the CP.  We saw two acts (Slim Dime and Baylou) before the dinner break and then four more acts (Nick Charles on guitar, Mama’s Mtn Jug Band, The Hillbilly Goats and Royden Donohue).  We enjoyed all, except the last one left a bit to be desired.  The Hillbilly Goats said driving into White Cliffs felt like a combination of Mad Max meets Wolfe Creek, but they thought it was great as they saw over 500 wild goats along the way.

On the Sunday we missed the Poet’s breakfast at 8:30am but we made the church service at 11:30am.  Luckily we got seats as the little church was overflowing.  It was a fabulous service and four of the acts from the concert sang in the service, including an Elvis Impersonator, who sang a few gospel songs with the Bishop. The sermon was about why the Bishop thought Elvis was his 2nd favorite saint.  Last year he spoke about why Dolly Parton was his number one saint.  A ukelele group accompanied all the hymns and lead the singing.  It was a special kind of service and even included communion.  After church we went to the Opal Cafe for coffee where more music was played and there was a fiddle and ukelele jam session.  In the evening we joined a communal campfire in the CP.  Many people had brought their instruments and a few songs were played but there was a somewhat forced round of self-introductions and/or tell a story or play a tune.  Not as much singing along as we were expecting.  All in all it was truly a weekend full of music and very enjoyable. Next year is their 10 year anniversary and we’re thinking of going again if anyone is interested in coming along.

Our next stop was Mutawintji NP, a 3.5 hour drive from White Cliffs on dirt roads.  We did a short walk on arrival and saw heaps of kangaroos and a nanny goat with a small kid.  Apparently feral goats are a major problem and last year they removed 20,000 from this park.  There are a few good walks to do so we had another big walking day in Mutawintji and it was perfect weather for walking. We left our campsite at 10:30 and walked 9 kms in just over 5 hours.  We picked two hard walks (Class 4) described as for the “more adventurous” & “more enthusiastic & experienced walker”.  We only met one other couple doing the walk and saw lots of goats and kangaroos, as well as some aboriginal engravings.  Did lots of climbing and lots of rock hopping along a dry creekbed.  Fortunately the track was well signposted and even so, we both found it physically demanding and mentally challenging – working out where the track was and how to climb up or down the rocks.  This one included using ropes to get down one section. We managed it all and enjoyed some great views and vistas.  Could have stayed longer as there were more walks and drives to do. However, stupidly we had forgotten to fill up with diesel in White Cliffs so we had to return to Broken Hill.

As we were leaving we realized that we had an electrical problem, and with some phone help from the manufacturer of the van, we worked out that the solar panels weren’t working well.  Another job to do in BH.  As well as getting fuel we got water, a gas bottle refill, groceries and new portable solar panels.  Overnighted about 250 kms north of BH at a free camp at Lake Cobham (no water) south of Tibooburra. Lots of kangaroos on the road and we narrowly missed hitting three at different times. Treated to a lovely sunset and then a beautiful sunrise, before we drove to Tibooburra where we got fuel and water.  Trying hard to stay topped up as we are getting into more remote areas.  Admired the murals inside the Family Hotel (painted by a group of famous artists some years ago) and let the tyre pressure down as we are now permanently on dirt roads.  Did a couple of scenic loop drives in Sturt NP (not very exciting, rough roads and very dry countryside) before camping at Olive Downs campgrounds.  Sturt NP was named after Charles Sturt, an early explorer.  Finished the day with a 40 minute walk on the Jump Up track.

The next day a 2 hour drive across the top of Sturt NP went through gibber (weather worn pebbles) and Saltbrush plains, where temperatures vary from over 50C in summer to below freezing in winter.  We’ve seen three types of kangaroos in the NP; reds, greys and euros plus lots and lots of dead ones (apparently due to the drought).  At Fort Grey (an empty and dry looking campground) we did a 4 km walk into Lake Pinaroo which is dry but fills during floods and takes 7 years to empty.  This was where Charles Sturt planned to make his base camp in 1844, until the water drained from the lake.  We put the fly nets to good use here.

Next stop was Cameron Corner, where New South Wales, Queensland and South Australia (SA) meet.  As we were leaving NSW we saw the famous dog fence, the longest fence in the world at 5614 kms (longer than the Great Wall of China).  Initially built in 1887 to prevent rabbits spreading into SA,  but when that failed in 1914 the height was increased to keep wild dogs (dingos) out of NSW.  Today boundary riders still patrol and maintain the fence and vehicles are banned from driving along it (offence liable for prosecution).  We opened the gate in the dog fence to cross over into South Australia and then turned to go to Camerons Corner store in Queensland to get diesel, covering three states in three minutes!  The store was low on fuel as the truck was 3 days late so we didn’t take any as we still had 80 litres in our tank.

I spent the afternoon yelling “Red Flag” as the road crossed over an endless number of steep sandhills/dunes and most were marked with red flags at the top to warn drivers to stop as you couldn’t see the major potholes on the other side.  That lasted for two hours.  We met one couple with a broken suspension on their caravan (trailer) and have since heard that they were stuck on that road for two days.  Another couple were waiting two days for a tow truck to come and tow their camper over 500 kms to Port Augusta, where they could get it repaired.  It was a very bad road!  We ended up in a free camp overlooking a gas refinery at Moomba in the middle of nowhere, where we had the fastest internet Dick had ever seen.  The fly nets have become our latest fashion statement or ‘can’t be without’ accessory.  Too many flies to risk getting out of the van.

Unusually for us, we have seen a few sunrises as we are in training (6am alarms so we get longer driving days).  The Moomba sunrise was so lovely it inspired me to write a poem (copy at the end of this blog).  After I got my internet/communication fix and Dick did his list of maintenance jobs (fixing leaks and missing screws); we drove 1.5 hours on more rough roads to Innamincka.  Lunch at the hotel was nice and they had the best toilet I have seen since Sydney (funny what excites one after days in the bush). We camped in the NP at Ski camp on Coopers Creek.  Saw a dingo and lots of signs warning to leave them alone and not leave things outside in your camp.  And had lots of flies.

After the fill up, dump, wifi and showering jobs were done, we headed for Coongie Lakes.  On the way we saw an empty stockyard so we parked by the stock loading ramp which was high enough to give us access to clean our rooftop solar panels.  Then it was another rough road for 2 hours, and then some very steep sand dunes with deep soft sand to cross over before we found a campsite by the lake.  Did a walk along the lake wearing our fly nets.  Battled thousands of flies whenever we went outside.  In the last two days I have already killed well over a hundred with my trusty fly swatter or my bare hands in the van, where we have been known to also wear our nets.

Again we had a nice sunset and a brillant sunrise.  Up early to do more repair jobs (these rough roads take their toll daily), and then  managed getting back over those soft sand dunes again.  Thankfully the Toyota did well in low range 4WD.  Flies still bad in the morning. Went back to Innamincka for more topping up before we started the drive to Birdsville via Walkers Crossing.  Took advice on which road to take and lucky we did, as this one was good and saved 100 kms.  We saw virtually no traffic and no animals on the four hour drive.  Pulled over for the night at the side of the road near a sand dune on a gibber plain in the Sturt Stony Desert (as named by Charles Sturt).  Had fun climbing the dune to watch the sunset.  I have been thinking I should invent a ‘fly net onesie’ for these places.  Flies also very bad here.

For my morning heart starter I ran back up the sand dune, and missed the sunrise but did enjoy that soft light it brings.  Had an easy drive to Birdsville, even meeting another Explorer Motor Home on the road where we stopped for a chat.  Will now end this post on arrival in Birdsville and with my poem.

Sunrise

Sunrise is my new friend

Not one I know too well

It brings promise of joy and wonder

with hues of red, pink and orange

first tentatively peeking out, spreading

and then bursting forth magnificently.

Before soon passing away as if to say

be quick or you’ll miss me forever

or at least for a day.

 

 

 

The 2018 Outback Adventure started the way the 2017 Lestervan trip finished, with a visit to Kevin and Jenny’s property, Slippery Boards, in the foothills of the Barrington Tops, about 3.5 hours from Sydney.  A good start to get us on the way – and to that end we took Bucketts Way and then Thunderbolts Way as we headed north through the steep mountain ranges and green valleys to Gunnedah.  Saw camels, llamas, sheep, horses and lots of cattle along the way.

The plan for this trip is to visit the more out of the way parts of Australia’s Red Centre, as well as revisiting some old favorite places from our 2016 trip like Alice Springs and the MacDonnell Ranges.  To get there we are doing a large part of the Darling River Run(DRR), an iconic outback touring route which follows the Darling River from Walgett to Wentworth.  We leave it at Menindee where we head for Camerons Corner, the point where three states ( NSW, SA & Qld) join, before driving to Birdsville to meet our friends Chris and Chris, who we stayed with in far north Queensland last year.  We look forward to exploring parts of the Centre with them.

Our first stop of note was Lightening Ridge, an interesting opal mining town, not on the Darling River but a recommended stopping point.  In fact we are following many recommendations from our friend, Fran, who did the DRR in September 2017 and shared her experiences in her  blog, which is very useful.  Its kind of like having Fran along giving us advice on where to stay and what to see etc.  Dick asked me if I would acknowledge that in my blog and I reminded him that I WAS in publishing for over 25 years and understood about copyright! As always the Tourist Info Centre was helpful and we did follow Fran’s suggestion to do the Car Door tours (a series of self-drive tours marked by different colored car doors). Also enjoyed a great gallery (John Murray Gallery), some opal jewellery browsing, and a visit to the Walk In Mine (part of the  Blue Car Door tour). Finished up with a sunset viewing where the first mine shaft was dug in 1902 (Green Car Door tour).  Met a couple from Brisbane there and ended up having dinner with them at the Bowling Club. Planned on visiting the artesian baths that evening but it was a cool night so we called it a day although the 40 degree C pools did look inviting, and are a key attraction of the town.

Before leaving town we revisited one of the jewellers to make a small opal purchase (my souvenirs for the trip).  Then we hit the highway to drive to Bourke. Saw lots of emus and feral goats beside the road.  Along the way we stopped in Brewarrina to see the 40,000 year old fish traps, reputed to be the oldest man-made structures on earth.  They are an elaborate network of rock weirs and pools, built to catch fish as they swim upstream.  At over one-half a km, they are the largest functional and most complex set of Aboriginal fish traps ever recorded and they are still being used today.  The brochures suggested Brewarrina could be an interesting place to look around but the reality was a stark contrast.  Couldn’t find the Tourist Info (no signs), the trendy sounding cafe was behind a large locked door, streets largely deserted and signs warned to take all valuables with you when parking.  We saw the fish traps and left town.

Drove to a free camp 10km’s north of Bourke called Mays End and parked right beside the Darling River, so now it does feel like we are on the DRR.  Even got some lovely sunrise photos over the Darling River before going into Bourke for info, groceries, fuel and coffee near the old wharf.  In the past this river was a major transport route with shipments to and from Adelaide.

Driving into Gundabooka NP had us back on red dirt roads so we let the tyres down before getting into Dry Tank campground.  Did the easy 5 km walk to Little Mtn in 1.5 hours, and from that lookout we could see the mountain we would be climbing next.  I saw a dingo or wild dog slink off as we approached the lookout.  Was a big day for wearing our fly nets.  Had a chat with the neighbors in the campground and all four of us were wearing flynets.

The Valley of the Eagle (Ngana Malyan) walk goes up Mt Gunderbooka and was labelled as ‘a difficult, 5.7km return walk over rocky and very steep terrain’.  Its a 300m (1000 ft) elevation change to the top.  That was our target.  Just before we started the walk in Bennetts Gorge, we were fortunate to meet Jack Bennett (90) who the gorge was named after and two aboriginal women.  They offerred us some of their lunch, which was interesting as no one ever offers anyone anything generally.  They told us some history of the place and that it is a spiritual place for aboriginal people, and that Jack did a lot of the work laying out the park. We had a nice chat with them.  They seemed surprised we were doing the walk, and we found out why.  The distance did not convey the difficulty.  We took over four hours winding up and down the mountain, but I did have two lengthy mother’s day phone calls and we had lunch up at the top. It was a beautiful sunny day, some wind so not too hot but lots of flies. Lucky we carry fly nets!  The view was impressive and we had the mountain to ourselves.  Scientists trace its formation back some 400million years ago.  It was a sanctuary for aborigines during times of drought and has its own creation story.  It was also the place where Captain Starlight (aka Frank Pearson), a well-known bush ranger (outlaw) was arrested in 1868.  Lots of history for a place that is not generally well known.

We retired to the other NP campground, Yanda, on the Darling River.  Starting to get a sense of the huge floodplain of the Darling River.  Interesting to see various stages of the river and the flood destruction alongside it.  Then we drove to Trilby Station (sheep ranch) which was highly recommended by Fran.  Got a private, riverside campsite and made full use of the laundry and showers, and the canoes, as we had a paddle down the river.  Enjoyed meeting our host Liz, who also provided us with a 4course dinner, driven to our campsite.  An upmarket, gourmet ‘meals on wheels’ almost.  She also gave us a book to read that she wrote about her family, life on the station, her adventurous world travels, how the station is run and a history of early pioneers in the area.  We’d seen lots of feral goats along the road but had no idea what a valuable commodity they were and how important an income factor they are.  Sale prices vary from $20 – $200/$300 per goat.  This station is 127,721 acres, has its own airstrip and a Cessna 172.  They carry 17,000 sheep.  26,000 acres are Darling River floodplain and floods are a regular occurence here.  The homestead is on an island protected by levy banks but they have been flooded in for up to 3 months at a time.  The last flood was in 2012. Our stay was made much more interesting by being able to learn so much from Liz’s very well written book.

We continued along the dirt roads beside the Darling River, briefly stopping at Tilpa (population 11).  The pub had no power, no fuel, no anything for the day so we kept going.  Lots of emus, kangaroos and feral goats along the road. All was fine until the right rear Tyre Dog (tyre pressure monitor) beeped to tell us we had a flat tyre.  We were on a dead straight dirt road in the Darling River floodplain with no traffic to speak of.  Out came the tools and the manual and Dick did a great job changing the tyre.  I could hardly lift it!  Thankfully we’d been advised by Chris to carry a huge pipe to help turn the nut spanner.  It worked a treat and otherwise we’d have been in trouble – 80 kms out of Wilcannia (population 745), no phones and only 3 vehicles passed in an hour.  Got to the tyre repair shop by 4:30 and it was locked up as the guy was out on a tow.  Checked into the Warrawong on the Darling CP (another Fran recommendation) and took a bush camp on the billabong about 2 kms from everyone else.  All things considered the day worked out ok.

At the tyre repair place in Wilcannia we learned we had a gash in the sidewall of our tyre, so we ended up with a $50 secondhand BF Goodrich spare.  At one stage both Dick and I were under the van trying to get the spare mounted.  Would have been a good photo with just our legs sticking out as we were parked in the main street.  We drove the dirt road to Menindee, a bit of a boring drive and everything is so dry.  Even the main Menindee Lake has no water.  Then we met the least helpful person ever at the Tourist Info office so that put us off the place.The whole area looks to be really suffering – huge fields of dead grape vines, empty campgrounds, empty lakes, closed roads and not many visitors.  One could imagine having a totally different experience if they had rain and the lakes were full but its very dry and quite sad looking at this time.  We did stop for lunch at the base camp for the 1860 Burke and Wills Expedition, which is now a campground. Then we visited Kinchega NP and saw the historic Kinchega Woolshed.  We were the only ones there so wandered all through the deserted buildings.  As described by Fran -“it was built in 1875 of corrugated iron and red river gum.  In the 97 years it was operational, 6 million sheep were sheared.”  We camped at a free camp on Lake Pamamaroo, which has water and a picturesque sunset over the lake.

This marks the end of our journey down the Darling River Run.  We’ve seen a lot of the Darling River and its flood plain, and started to get an appreciation of the devastation in western NSW caused by the lack of water; due to both natural causes and the major irrigation schemes upstream.