After we left Palm Valley we visited Hermannsberg, the first aboriginal mission in NT(Norther Territory), which was established by the Lutherans in 1877.  It is known for being the home of Albert Namatjura, the first famous aboriginal painter, and contained more interesting history of the region.  Back in Alice we got internet, got news, got mail, got groceries, got LPG, got money, voted and saw a doctor about my knee (busy afternoon).  The next day we got our diesel heater fixed and washed the van, which was very dirty!  The time in Alice seemed to go on jobs but we also saw the Beanie exhibition (from the Beanie Festival) and some galleries and the Centre Museum.  Family news-Amy’s Woman’s Masters Ultimate Frisbee team just got Bronze in the World Championships in London (behind USA  & Canada) and Helen and Alex are now in Spain starting their year long European trip.

Leaving Alice we headed for the East MacDonnell Ranges, the lesser known side of the ranges.  Another sunny day and we stopped for a look at  Emily and Jessie Gaps, both special aboriginal places with some rock paintings.  On the way to our camping spot, Trephina Gorge, we saw the largest ghost gum in the country.  Camping at an NT nature park in a beautiful gorge with lovely walks is not too hard to take.  We did the  Panorama walk up to the top of the gorge from 4pm so we got more lovely afternoon light as well as some sprinkles of rain.  Did another lovely walk in the morning around the rim and through the bottom of the gorge.  Then we drove, mostly gravel roads, to Hale River Resort at Old Ambulindum.  It took about 2 hours to do 55k’s.  Fabulous drive and our sense is that in the East MacDonnell Ranges one drives right through them whereas in the West Macs the road is further away from the Ranges.  Hardly anyone in the East Macs also.  Visited Arltunga Historical Reserve, the site of Central Australia’s first town, following the first gold discovery in 1887.  We were the only attendees for a ranger talk about gold mining, given by two gold prospectors, who knew their stuff and talked us through the stages of prospecting and mining gold (a complicated and arduous process).

Did one last visit to the West MacDonnells, camped at Glen Helen Gorge as we hadn’t seen that gorge, and got some lovely end of day photos there.  Got up and did a small walk on part of the Larapinta to the red rock arch, a nice way to end our time there.

Thank you to all who’ve made comments and sent emails in response to our blog.  We appreciate the feedback and its nice to keep in touch.  I have to confess to really, really missing internet/communication when we are in the bush camps.  We’re about to say ‘goodbye’ to the Centre and head north.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Following a night of rain and continuing rain in the day, we tackled the Mereenie Loop 4 WD road (part of The Red Centre Way). It is a corrugated road (continuous small ridges across the road, teeth chattering) that passes through aboriginal land, and it was the most direct route to Palm Valley (194 kms).  I was nervous because of the rain and it started out very muddy, but we aired down the tyres and Dick did a great job on the driving.  I was not keen to have my turn driving! Then we did 18kms on the 4WD road into Palm Valley, which included four river crossings, and ended up in a very nice NP (National Park) campground.  Spent a couple of hours around the communal campfire with a few of the neighbors.

From the campground it is 4 kms to the actual Palm Valley, on a very, very rough 4 WD track.  It was my first REAL 4WD experience and took a while for the heart rate to slow and the shallow breathing to return to normal.  If we hadn’t done the 4WD course I don’t know how I would have coped.  Dick took it slow and easy in 4WD low range with low tyre pressure and the Lestervan did very well.  Lots of river crossings and rock climbing by the van.  The valley features Red Cabbage Palms and Cycads and lots of lovely red cliffs.  We did the one hour walk in the late afternoon sunlight and just got out before dark.  Quite an experience for me (Dick found it somewhat challenging, interesting, and satisfying because the van worked well and seemed to lumber through the challenges without hesitation; and I think he enjoyed it!)

After the excitement of our 4 wheel drive day we took it easy and only did a late afternoon walk to Kalarranga Lookout-3 kms return from the campground and more stunning views of Palm Valley.