It was nice to be back in Alice Springs as we enjoy the town, and all its facilities.  Its a big change from free camps and rough roads! Due to our mechanical problems we ended up in town for one of the busiest weekends of the year when the normal population of 30,000 becomes 45,000.  Somehow we managed to share an ensuite site (our own toilet and shower) with Chris & Chris (C&C) at the Big 4 CP, our regular stopover in Alice, so we were happy with that.  Although unplanned it was interesting to be there for the Finke Desert Race, Australia’s ultimate desert race for motorbikes (700), quads and buggies (~200 km to Finke one day, then back the next).  We decided to do some of the race related activities since we were there, so we attended the Finke Street Party and Night Markets, as well as the Finke Desert Race Scrutineering, where all competitors have their machines and clothing checked and passed for racing.  Over 3000 people attended this, so it was interesting to get some insight into a unique subculture we know nothing about.  Two nights of eating from food stalls though was enough.  Then Dick and I had a day of walking in the West MacDonnells, doing a few short walks along parts of the Larapinta Trail.

Our time in Alice was good for phone calls, paperwork, laundry, shopping, eating out and van cleaning, as well as some pampering for Christine and I at Phuongs Nails.  The big task however was to get both vehicles repaired.  We got our fuel tank leaks welded and C&C got a new gearbox. We all got stocked up for more travels and then celebrated our last night together at an Italian restaurant.  C&C headed back to their home in north Queensland and we headed down south towards the Painted Desert.

As we drove south down the Stuart Highway we met continuous convoys of caravans heading north. We stopped at the Henbury Meteorite Conservation Park to see the Henbury Craters, not as large as the Wolfe Creek Craters, but study of their complex geological structure has helped to intrepret features on Mars and US astronauts once visited the craters in preparation for moon landings.  We never know what we will see out here!  Did the 1.5 km walk around four craters and had lunch before driving down the highway to a free camp at Agnes Creek.  Am reading a very interesting book, Stuart’s Tracks by John Bailey, which is about the explorations of John Stuart who discovered and named much of the land in the areas we are visiting.  Improving my knowledge of early Australian history immensely.

Driving down the highway I noticed a warning light on the dash.  It looked like a fuel pump but we had filled up, so we got out the trusty manual and discovered it was the fuel filter light.  Given Dick’s thorough preparations he had a spare fuel filter and was able to change it and it all worked – Hurray! Left the bitumen and headed for Arckaringa Station, home of the Painted Desert.  Got some lovely late afternoon photos as we did a 2-3 km walk in the stunning Painted Desert.  Having great sunny days and cool nights (heater time).

Then it was all corrugated, dirt roads to Dalhousie Springs.  We arrived at 3pm intending to swim and move on, but it was so pleasant in the springs – a large area of warm, comfortable hot thermal water ~150 meters across, with swimming noodles to borrow; so we decided to camp there. The next day literally started with a bang – as Dick sprayed his shaver cleaner on his razor while I had three burners going cooking breakfast.  I heard a bang, turned around and saw Dick fall back and I saw a fire on his razor.  The cleaning fluid fumes burst into flames and burned the hair on both of Dick’s arms and hands.  Fortunately he had a lucky escape and some cold water on the arms seemed to fix him up.  We enjoyed another hour lounging in the hot springs and did the 2km circuit walk around the springs before heading off to Mt Dare.  We both thought that Dalhousie Springs were the nicest hot springs we have been in (even better than Bitter Springs and they were really nice).  The 70km drive to Mt Dare took 2 hours, a reflection of the rough roads; lots of rocks, deep corrugations and some sandy sections.  Decided to treat ourselves with dinner in the hotel, as it exists to serve the travelling public, especially people crossing or finishing a Simpson Desert trip. Also bought some of the most expensive diesel in Australia at $2.45 per litre.

More corrugated roads took us to Old Andado, a heritage listed homestead, that used to be home to Molly Clarke, an amazing pioneer woman.  Molly’s place was kept as it was originally, to show people how the pioneers lived in the outback.  She also established the National Pioneer Womens Hall of Fame in Alice Springs in 1993.  The next stop was the Mac Clarke (husband of Molly) Conservation Reserve, which was established to protect about 1000 mature Waddywood (acacia peuce) trees.  These are rare trees of the arid zone found only in three places in Australia (also Birdsville and Boulia). Without trying we sometimes end up driving too late in the day, and this was a case in point. Hurrying to find a free camp before the sun set and driving into the sun on corrugated roads – good thing Dick was driving! No other traffic but we did drive into a herd of about 50 cattle blocking the road and in no hurry to move.  When they did charge off, they kicked up so much dust we couldn’t see a thing for about five minutes. Just as the sun set we found a lovely free camp at the edge of the Arookara Range.

The next day saw more rough roads with lots of deep sand as we headed for Santa Theresa, an aboriginal community with a beautiful Catholic Church richly decorated with striking aboriginal wall murals. Enjoyed visiting their art centre, Keringke Arts, with their bright, colorful and very attractive ceramics and paintings.  Checked back into a nice ensuite site at the Big Four CP in Alice and had a few days of catch up/stock up chores, van washing and internet access, without having to worry about having enough drinking water or where to dump the toilet cassette.