It was great to have some time at home in April but we still had the ‘festival bug’ so drove to Canberra to attend the 53rd National Folk Festival over Easter. Might as well take in the biggest in the country during our ‘Year of Festivals’, and Canberra is only a 4 hour drive with stops. The festival and camping is held in Exhibition Park in Canberra (epic) which is a very large area. It needed to be as this festival had it all – themed shows, workshops, forums and talks, visitor participation (choirs, music sessions, dance sessions, uke muster, yoga, zumba, workshops etc), spoken word performances, national awards, street performances, circus, parades, arts, kids sessions, dance performances, instrument makers, and a great marketplace with food, drink, clothes, handcrafts, hats, jewellery and almost whatever else you can think of.
In our 4 days we got so much variety as we saw a few old favorites (ie Ballpoint Penguins, The Fagans, Shortis & Simpson) and lots of new acts (ie Eric Bogle, Irish Mythen, Enda Kenny). The daily Uke Muster was too advanced for us so only did one 9am Uke session. There were 114 acts/performers listed in the program and we saw 46 acts. This was a big , well-run festival machine with 1200 volunteers, 15 stages and high quality acts from around the world. We also walked over 25 kms (38,000 steps) and had many late nights and 12 hour days. Sessions started at 8:30am and finished at 1:30am.
Themes of social justice were alive and well in many of the songs. In fact people were singing 30 year old songs about climate change that were just as relevant today. Kind of scary to think about that. The atmosphere was great and we enjoyed it all.
National Folk Festival 2019The Fagans – two generationsMoorish dancers everywhere!u
Zackerbilts, a Canberra band.Our camping spot, on a road next to a trotting racecourse – not our most solubrious campspot.
After our Canberra excursion we stayed in Sydney until mid-June so I could be around for the Queens birthday announcements and my one minute of fame. I was honoured to be awarded an Order of Australia Medal for service to women through charitable initiatives for my volunteer work with Dress for Success Sydney.We then headed north and made our regular stops; Port Macquarie for dinner with Anne and Mick, some national park camping on the beautiful NSW north coast and a visit to Explorer Motorhomes to pick up a part for the Lestervan. Since we enjoyed it before, we returned to Bribie Island and this time camped on the beach, a 20 km beach drive from the town.Getting through the deep sand to the beach was challenging but Dick and the Lestervan managed it well and our camping spot is very beautiful.
Port Macquarie dinner with Anne and MickEnjoying the sunset in Yuraygir National Park, NSW coast and walking back to the van.Our camp on Ocean Beach, Bribie Island – it feels like we have this beach all to ourselves!
Enjoyed a nice 4 km walk along the beach, had lunch and skyped with Eileen and Darcy; while we waited for low tide so we could drive back along the beach and then navigate the sandy 2km access road. I took a 6 minute video of that drive to distract me from worrying about getting bogged. Dick and the Lestervan did well; and we’ve included a condensed one minute video of the driving we did to get off the beach.
Walking along the beach on Bribie Island where we campedOur next stop was a Caravan Park at Coolum Beach where we had a night out with friends from Sydney, Lyn and Peter, who are also travelling and happened to be in the area. The socializing continued for four days and included an amazing 9 course degustation lunch with Janice and John in Noosa and a lovely lunch out with Pamela and Rod. We slept in their driveway so also enjoyed supper and breakfast with them. In Mooloolaba we had dinner and breakfast out with Allan and Barbara, and got a scenic tour of the area and a look at Barbara’s new house.
Dinner out with Lyn and Peter in Coolum BeachHappy faces after finishing off a delectable degustation with Janice and JohnDriveway camping in Noosa at Pamela and Rod’sHard to believe we worked together in 1977 when Pamela trained me as a publisher’s rep (amongst other things…)With Allan after a healthy brunch in Mooloolaba
All in all we’ve had a very pleasant start to our trip, although we are still looking for warmth and sunshine. The Lestervan is now pointed northwards.
During our month travelling in Victoria we visited three music festivals and caught up with friends in Melbourne as discussed in the previous blog. In addition March was a good time for exploring various parts of that state. We saw lots of beautiful country and interesting artwork. Just past the end of the Great Ocean Road is equally as scenic coastline with the added benefit of ‘no people’ around.
Rugged coastline near Warrnambool
Beautiful quiet bays
This map shows our route through Victoria with festival locations highlighted in purple and campsites highlighted in blue.
Map of Victoria with our route, campsites (X) and festivals (X) highlighted
After leaving Port Fairy/Warrnambool we headed north to the Grampians National Park for some hiking. First stop was the quiet little town of Dunkeld which boasts one of the best dining destinations in Australia, the Royal Mail Hotel. So of course, we had lunch there and also collected all the Grampians hiking brochures at the Tourist Info Centre. At Halls Gap we visited Brambuk, the national park info and cultural centre. It was quite sobering going through the aboriginal museum; seeing the photos and reading the stories of aboriginal history in the area.
Brambuk Cultural Centre, the building resembles the sweeping wings of a cockatoo
The first evening in Halls Gap we visited our friends, Phil and Monica (who we met travelling in 2017). They have a large property and offered us a park at their place. We all went out to dinner at the local Indian restaurant. They are intrepid walkers (and founders of Auswalk, a guided walk company) so in the morning we sat down with them and got the lowdown on the Grampians, in terms of which walks and drives to do. We also got a tour of their amazing vegie garden – figs, avocados, raspberries, tomatoes, spring onions, pumpkins, squash plus lots more. We came away with a generous collection! They were very hospitable!
Phil and Monica’s place with the vegie garden on the left hand side.
We then started our walking with a 2.5 hr, 7.5 km(return) hike to MacKenzie Falls. Nice walk and sunny day, but I had a bad trip crossing on some stepping stones; was a bit shaken and got some nice bruises. Spent the night in a quiet NP campground.
MacKenzie Falls The stepping stones where I wiped out, not paying attention rather than a difficult crossing.
Decided to combine driving and short scenic walks to give ourselves an easier day. Visited four lookouts for a total of 5 kms of walking and some awesome views. Spent the night in another NP campground, Stapylton, and finished the day with a walk to some aboriginal art.
The Balconnies Lookout Lake Wartook Lookout, with 360 degree views from the top
Ngamadjidj Shelter – aboriginal art with the white stick figures depicting white people
Tackled the steep, hard walk up Mt Stapylton (278 m elevation change). Although it was only 4.6 kms, we found it quite tough and did not go the last little bit to the top as it was very exposed, steep and no one else was around. Between the walk and the 29C temperature, we were both tired, so later did an easy walk to more aboriginal art and then checked into a caravan park in Halls Gap, where we enjoyed a nice shower.
Even the beginning of the walk was steep
We named this the ‘chicken rock’ as we passed by it on the climb up
This was as far up as we got on Mt Stapylton
Great views from up there
More walks followed, more great lookouts and we returned to Phil and Monica’s for another night, which turned into another two nights as Dick spent a day working with Monica on a couple of technology projects. We had a nice social time and enjoyed two very nice dinners.
The view from Sundial Peak The view we had at dinner with Monica and Phil; note the kangaroos in the background. The kangaroos and emus happily shared their yard.
Eventually we did leave their place, laden with fresh figs and tomatoes from their garden, and then we did the iconic Grampians walk, The Grand Canyon and the Pinnacles. Quite a strenuous walk with a 280 meter elevation change on a hot day. Took us 3.5 hours to do the 4 km return trip. More stunnning views!!! Before we left the Grampians we headed back south to Dunkeld, treated ourselves to another meal at the Royal Mail Hotel, a free shower at the tourist info and found a nice free camp. Our last walk was the Picaninny hike (2.4kms) before we drove to the Manja Shelter to view another aboriginal art site, and then moved on to a caravan park in the town of Dimboola prior to booking into the Horsham Country Music Festival.
This passageway is called the silent street, on the way to the Pinnacles
The Pinnacles lookout Happy to be enjoying this view Another lookout in the southern Grampians A beautiful Dimboola sunset
In the Horsham area we saw The Pink Lake, Little Desert NP, Mt Arapiles (which is a large rock pile) and The Stick Shed (#101 on the National Heritage List). It was built in 1941 to store wheat during World War II and is an impressive & unusual example of Australian rural architecture (bush ingenuity & adaptation), which used 560 unmilled hardwood poles ensuring the structure could move and shift in high winds.
Inside ‘The Stick Shed’ – its 265 m long x 60 m wide x almost 20 m high (5 Olympic swimming pools long)
Outside view of ‘The Stick Shed’
We’d heard about ‘The Silo Art Trail’ and had a good day driving the 200+kms through six small towns in the Wimmera Mallee region. The silo murals were painted by renowned artists who spent time in each region before using their art to tell a unique story about each town. A great initiative and worth seeing, although there wasn’t much done in each place to encourage you to stay more than the five minutes it took to view the silos.
Rupanyup painted by Julia Volchkova (Russia) Sheep Hills painted by Adnate (Melbourne) Brim painted by Guido van Helten (Australian) Rosebery painted by Kaff-eine (Melbourne) Patchewollock painted by Fintan Magee (Brisbane)
We finished that silo day at Swan Hill and started our Murray River time by taking in their light and laser show called ‘ Heartbeat of the Murray’.
The laser light show over the Murray River, highlighting history and creation stories
Aiming to do some free camping along the Murray River we left Swan Hill (after photographing The Big Cod), visited the Ibis Rookery at Middle Lake (no Ibis but saw ducks and pelicans from the hide), and found an isolated campsite on Gunbower Creek in the forest on Gunbower Island (nr Koondruk). Our next camp was further along the Murray near Echuca. We spent some time in Echuca doing a tour at the Wharf Discovery Centre. It was very good explaining the interesting history of Echuca and the Murray/Darling River system. Having got the silo bug we drove to Rochester to see their painted silo and town murals before crossing over the Murray into NSW for our final free camp along the Murray River.
The Big Cod in Swan Hill Free camp on Gunbower Creek The second Murray River campsite The Echuca wharf looking down on the paddle steamers They had a great map of the Murray Darling Basin on the wall The Rochester silo murals Our last Murray River camp at Sandy Beach in NSW before we drove home via an overnight stop in Gundagai