The long drive from NT and safe arrival home

The journey home was 4100 kms and the aim was to see a few interesting things along the way, but to keep moving.  That plan took us 11 days; it felt like a lot of driving and was mostly ‘one night stands’.  After leaving Bitter Springs we headed south down the Sturt Highway, named after an early explorer, John McDougall Sturt.  Stopped to see the historic Daly Waters Pub, established in 1930.  It was interesting and quirky but also crowded so we had our lunch down the road at the Sturt Tree, where Sturt carved his initial ‘S’ into the tree in 1862.  Camped at Banka Banka outstation and then did a full day of driving to a free camp alongside a billabong at Camooweal.  Beginning to get cold in the night as we are moving south, so a good time for the heater to stop working!  Started the day with a lovely visit from a brolga before we drove to Mt Isa and visited the Riversleigh Fossil Center Museum and Woolworths for groceries.  Funny being in a town with a mine in the middle, and three smokestacks the most prominent feature on the skyline.

Had the next two nights at Winton so we could visit the Dinosaur Stampede National Monument, which was quite amazing as the dinosaur trackways and footprints we saw were formed 95 million years ago.  On the tour they showed excellant videos that told the story of the discovery of the footprints, as well as what it was like there 95 million years ago, including the three kinds of dinosaurs who left those footprints (a large theropod, a small coelurosaur and a small ornithopod) who together left 3300 footprints in the only known dinosaur stampede in the world.  Apparently the small dinosaurs were drinking and then were frightened by the large theropod.  After our tour we had lunch and a van comparison chat with Jude & Pete from Thirroul who have a similar vehicle.  It was a hot sunny day so Dick and I did a 4 km walk around the area, which included a very steep climb down the cliff (no choice as it was way past the half way mark!).  Winton was a fun town and during our stay we enjoyed: 1)the chicken races and listening to the Banjo Patterson story and poems by the bush poet, Gregory North in the North Gregory Hotel, 2)listening to Sax and the Single Girl who played her sax for 2 hours in the Tatts Hotel where we had dinner, 3)visiting Arno’s wall (a 70 meter long fence constructed from concrete and rock and studded with tons of old stuff like hub caps, vintage typewriters and cash registers, motorbikes and car parts and a kitchen sink ) 4)playing ‘The Musical Fence’ (a wire fence that can be played as a musical instrument – the first permanent musical fence in the world) and 5)photographing the Jolly Swagman statute, sculptured by Daphne Mayo in 1959 to commemorate “Waltzing Matilda” and dedicated to Banjo Patterson and the many swagmen who lie in unmarked graves around the country.  Banjo Patterson wrote ‘Waltzing Matilda’ near Winton so its a key focus for the town.  We missed a lot of the other attractions there but it was interesting to see how this little town really catered to travellers and made it a fun place to stay.

Next stop was Longreach to see the Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame, which we visited from 2-5pm and could have stayed longer.  It was well done, telling the story of outback Australia through 6 major galleries featuring artefacts, electronic displays, photographs, films and a video in an impressive building.  Dick was particularly interested in the old stock routes for droving cattle, as they are now 4 WD tracks.  We went all out and also did the Outback Stockman’s show & Spit Roast dinner package.  The show was entertaining, dinner was surprisingly good and we sat with another couple (from Pt Lincoln who know someone I know) so had a social evening.  The other attraction of interest to us was the Qantas Founders Museum, where we did the 747 & 707 Tour and visited the museum.  That all turned out to be more interesting that I had expected.  We spent over 2 hours in the museum and 1.5 hours on the tour.  Lots of info about the two older planes and how they fly (maybe more than I wanted to know), but the most interesting was the Qantas founders story.  They had a real battle to succeed and the museum is a tribute to the foresight and tenacity of a number of people.  They moved the initial Qantas business to Longreach from Winton as the railhead was there and the original Qantas hanger is part of the museum and houses replica models of their early planes.  This was also really well done and one could easily spend a full day at each place.

Charleville was our next destination, via an overnight stop at Lara Wetlands where we managed  a quick dip in the thermal artesian mineral hot pool before dark.  The Charleville Cosmos Center & Observatory was the attraction so we could do a Sun Viewing Tour.  We learned about the life story of our Sun (which is a star) and the relative small size of our sun compared to the big stars in the sky. Then we looked at the surface of the sun through a solar telescope where we saw solar flares (hot ionized gas swirling off the surface).  Dick knows a bit about this and had hoped for a closer, more detailed view but he still saw more than he had seen before and was happy we went.  On the other hand, my preferred attraction was The Bilby Experience, but we couldn’t wait 4 hours for a tour so we missed seeing a live bilby.

Crossed into NSW on another long driving day and saw lots of animals on the drive; more dead kangaroos than live ones and more live emus than dead ones. The large number of animals requires constant surveillance/animal watching all the time. Spent the night in Barringun which has a hundred year old pub, one cafe/CP and a population less than 10; but lots of sheep, cattle, goats, pigs and emus.  More driving got us to Trangie via a coffee stop in Bourke and a photo stop in Nyngen.  Thanks Paul and Margaret for recommending Trangie CP,  where the owner supplied dinner for all around the campfire as it was ‘hot potato’ night.  In keeping with the way we started our trip, visiting friends along the way, we spent our last night away with Kevin and Jen at their large bush property in the foothills of the Barrington Tops.  Enjoyed a lovely meal celebrating Jen’s birthday.  A very pleasant transition to being back in Sydney.

Home safe and sound after 90 days on the road, 17,000 kms behind the wheel of the Lestervan (which looked after us well), and an even greater appreciation of this magnificent country.  In addition to the three highlights of Cape York, Savannah Way and Kakadu we saw so many amazing places, learned more about the history and aboriginal culture, enjoyed lots of challenging walks and managed to catch up with lots of old friends along the way.  For any intrepid travellers who are interested in trip statistics Dick did a couple of summary charts on the expense breakdown and types of camps as follows at the end of the photos.

Thank you all for joining us on our travels vicariously and for your comments along the way.  Its been fun sharing our adventure and keeping in touch.

Sending best wishes and love to all,

Pat and Dick


Daly Waters Pub
And the pumps at Daly Waters
Large spiders at Banka Banka station
A free camp at the billabong near Camooweal
Our early morning visitor, the brolga
Having a chat/dance with a brolga
Mt Isa from the town lookout


Dinosaur stampede footprints
A closer look at the footprints
The building that houses the dinosaur footprints
The country where the footprints were found
Climbing down the cliff on our walk
Winton’s chicken race in the pub
The bush poet in the pub
Sax in the pub
Arno’s wall in Winton
The Musical Fence in Winton
The Jolly Swagman sculpture in Winton
Dick at the Stockman’s Hall of Fame, Longreach
We are standing in the jet engine of a Qantas 747
The original Qantas hanger – from 1922
Dick enjoying the Lara Wetlands thermal spring at sunset
Sun viewing thru a solar telescope at Charleville
How’s this for a fancy looking campground in Barringun?
Having a beer in the 100 year old pub (now for sale by the way)


The friendly emu in the campground at Barringun


With Kevin and Jen (and Crackers) in front of their house


Trip statistics for 2017 & 2016



Lawn Hill NP and moving along the Savannah Way

Our next stop was Adel’s Grove, named after a French botanist, Albert De Lestang, who was commissioned by the government to experiment growing tropical trees & fruits in the 1930’s.  By 1939 he had over 1000 different species and it was a most beautiful botanic garden.  In the early 1950’s it was burnt out and subsequent owners have not continued the botanical aspect of the Grove.  We were camping in ‘The Grove’ area, next to Lawn Hill Creek and it is still an impressive grove with lots of tall trees and exotic foliage.  The reason to stop here is to visit Lawn Hill National Park (NP), now known as Boodjamulla NP, after the rainbow serpent who created the gorge and all the animals in the Dreamtime.  It is a 10 km drive to the NP and we spent the afternoon canoeing through the Lawn Hill Gorge, even did the portage and canoed through the Upper Gorge.  It was quite magical since the lush tropical vegetation (ie Livstonia Palms, figs, pandamus etc) are remnants of the ancient rainforest that covered the Gulf Savannah millions of years ago.  The gorges have sheer 60 m (200 foot) sandstone walls and beautiful clear green water.  Finished the day with a drink at our neighbors campfire.  Returned the next day to do the 8km Upper Gorge Walk which was stunning – great variety of terrain, 3 fabulous lookouts, a swim at the falls and a beautiful sunny day.  We walked all along the tops of the gorges we canoed through the day before and got a much better perspective of the gorge system and the surrounding area.  Walking along the gorge beside the high red cliffs and amongst the ferns and palms was very special, and we were disappointed that we didn’t have time to do more walks there. Met another couple, Ken and Roz,with an Explorer Motorhome like ours, so had some great conversations with them before and after our walk.

Travelling in the outback its good to stay flexible, as we found out again, when we turned up at Hells Gate Roadhouse at 1pm to get fuel and were greeted with a sign advising they were out of diesel. So we had lunch in the roadhouse, one of the nicest we’ve come across and one where we actually were happy to eat the food.  Hells Gate takes its name from the days when the police escorted the drovers and pastoralists to the Hells Gate pass on the NT border and then they were on their own.  We waited until 4pm when the fuel truck arrived and we were able to continue  on.  Could have stayed there as it seemed good but we wanted to visit a free camp 30 km down the road and we were glad we did.  Stayed at Hann Creek Billabong on our own and sat outside with a beer watching about 40 different bird species flitting around the billabong – very pleasant! And the sunrise was also special.  Funny for us to see a sunrise but the 6 am alarm is becoming a habit (maybe we are turning into grey nomads after all).  That stop marked the last overnight in Queensland and 10,000 kms so far on this trip.


The view of Lawn Hill Creek beside our campsite at Adel’s Grove


Canoeing in Lawn Hill / Bodjamulla NP
Beautiful red cliffs along the lower gorge


Innarroo Falls, site of the portage and swimming place
Dick portaging the canoe to the Upper Gorge
Canoeing in the Upper Gorge
Beautiful water lillies in the gorge
More water lillies


A beautiful peaceful place at the top of the gorge
The beginning of the gorge and where we turned around


It was such a beautiful canoe trip
And we even got very close to a cormorant


Dick made me hold my shirt up for a sail on the paddle back (not very effective)
The early part of the walk around the gorge


Looking down on the upper gorge, and a special spot for lunch


Walking between the red cliffs and the clear green water
Swimming back at the waterfalls
A refreshing dip on a hot walking day!


Another lookout and another view of the upper and lower gorges


The last lookout for the 8km walk, one of our highlights
The final climb down


End of day catchup with another Explorer MH!
Dick heading into the roadhouse



Not the sign you want to see!!
Our camp spot at Hann Creek Billabong
Sunrise over the billabong