Kununurra, Lake Argyle and Wyndham – Boats and boab country

We had no preconceptions of, or knowledge about, this part of the world and were pleasantly surprised by our time in Kununurra, Lake Argyle and Wyndham.  In Kununurra we stayed in Kimberleyland CP(Caravan Park) since two lots of friends had stayed there.  Caught up with errands (laundry and groceries) and also with eating out (a couple of lunches, a dinner and a special, extra nice meal at The Pumphouse restaurant).  Did some sightseeing (Sandalwood factory and The Hoochery-a rum distillery) but the highlight was the half day Triple J Tour on the Ord River (also known as Lake Kununurra in this section of river).  We cruised 55k’s down to the dam wall at Lake Argyle and then 55 k’s back in a high powered, open deck catamaran. The scenery was really good, went up some creeks, saw quite a few freshwater crocodiles and lots of bird life and some short-earred rock wallabies.  Learned a lot about the history of the area, the dam construction, the irrigation system and the range of crops that have been tried in the irrigated area over the years and finished up viewing the sunset on the lake.

The next day we drove to Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest man-made lake which was created in 1971.  There we did a ‘Best of Lake Argyle’ half day cruise and that was another great trip which gave us some sense of the size of the lake (70k in length and 45k across) which is currently about the size of 21 Sydney harbors and has hundreds of islands in it.  Our guide was excellant and we saw lots of the animals living on some of those islands including short eared rock wallabies, walleroos, cattle, crocodiles and a myriad of bird life.  We stopped on Remote Island to get our own piece of zebra rock and some had a swim in the lake accompanied by a large freshwater croc. There are 25,000 crocs in the lake. All enjoyed a magic sunset on the red rocks overlooking the lake.  This guide also relayed the history of the region and the lake/dams/ construction/irrigation system/ agriculture.  For dinner I had fish from Lake Argyle-Silver Cobbler (formerly known as Catfish) in the beer garden of the CP.

We enjoyed our time in that CP as they had an infinity pool which I swam in twice and we met a few people to visit with while we were there, including our neighbors who were semi-permanent residents there.  She was a hairdresser and when I saw her sign I booked Dick in for a haircut.  After I saw that she did a good job on him, I got her to cut mine as well.  Her husband spent time with us telling us about good places to camp in WA and SA so I took lots of notes.  We also visited the Durack Museum which was the original homestead moved and rebuilt after the land was flooded by the formation of Lake Argyle.  All in all we learned a lot about this interesting part of Australia.

Then we drove to Wyndham via the old road so we tackled ‘The Ivanhoe Crossing’, a concrete causeway covered by a steady flow of water from the Ord River which is precisely regulated by the dam system and takes excess water from the dams to the ocean.  It is several hundred meters long and has lots of water rushing over the full length so appears challenging to drive, but Dick drove through confidently and without incident.  We continued along the gravel road to Parry’s Creek Farm CP and the next day we visited Parry’s Lagoon Nature Reserve which has a boardwalk and a shaded bird hide to view the myriad of birds and some crocodiles in the lily pad covered  lagoon.  I was pleased to see a rainbow bea-eater, because of its pretty colors, plus tons of other water birds. Lots of boabs in this area. We checked out Wyndham and the Five Rivers Lookout but as the area where the rivers join Cambridge Gulf is so large,  its hard to see it all clearly.  The highlight of the day for me was a swim in The Grotto, which is a natural amphitheatre and pool accessed by 140 man-made steps down to the grotto. Its been 36 degrees for the last few days so the swim was welcome.  I drove to El Questro so had my turn at 4 wheel driving including 3 quite large water crossings.  On Day 60 of our adventure we are finally on the Gibb River Road!


Treating ourselves to a lovely dinner in the original pumphouse for the dam


3 Crocs on the side of the Ord River/Lake Kununurra


Can you see a horse drinking on this rock cliff?


The dam wall holding back Lake Argyle
Setting sun on cliffs near the Ord River


The dam wall from the Lake Argyle side
A crocodile and fish in Lake Argyl


Looking out in Lake Argyle
Views of Lake Argyle
A sunset kiss on Lake Argyle
The infinity pool at Lake Argyle CP


Dick’s hair cut – grey nomad style


The Ivanhoe Crossing that we drove across
Swimming in the Grotto
View of The Grotto, after my swim


Boabs everywhere in this landscape, with nuts that can fall down and smash a windscreen if you’re unlucky!


5 thoughts on “Kununurra, Lake Argyle and Wyndham – Boats and boab country

  1. How beautiful is Lake Argyle. Lucky you having a trip on it. I only saw it and that was enough for me at the time. Since reading Kings In Grass Castles it had been my dream to go to the Kimberly so I am happy. Keep on enjoying your trip and Love to you both.

  2. Great to hear about so many Kimberley places again, thanks for the pictures. Wish I was back there .. sigh .. We didn’t swim at the Grotto so you’re one up on me Pat (with the infinity pool too). A wonderful place though as you said. The Triple J trip was a highlight for us too. We’ve got some nice video of that day. Gosh, more crocs in Lake Argyle than there used to be! We too enjoyed Kunnanurra. I’m sure you’re very happy Pat now that Dick’s had a haircut ..! A pink Argyle diamond yet ..?

    At El Questro do a sunset trip on the Chamberlain river if you can, also visit Zebedee Springs – with your swimmers. We enjoyed the walk up Emma Gorge, swam there as well. So many special places you’re seeing .. glad you’re enjoying it all.

  3. Yes, I could see the horse drinking! Hahhah.
    The water in the Grotto looks as though it would have been cold! But a beautiful spot.
    I remember in primary school learning about how they were going to construct the Ord River Dam/Scheme. It only seems like yesterday.
    It all sounds fantastic although the water crossing sounds a bit nerve wracking.
    I do have one problem with your travel log however Pat and Dick! You never mention the adventures that Lester the Leopard gets up to. My mascot, Baby Ted, gets into all sorts of mischief.
    Perhaps Lester has been car sick all the way or ran away? If not, I hope to hear from him soon.

    1. I will send you a picture of Lester the Loepard. He is very happy and well behaved and lives on the tv, and he asked me to pass on his best regards to you.

  4. That all looks amazing & a part of the world we love. Haven’t don’t the infinity pool or Groto, so looking forward to it. You remember that we are only heading as far as Kununurra & aren’t leaving until next Saturday 6th. In Brisbane this weekend!! So unfortunately we won’t meet you this trip.
    Hopefully see you in Sydney early in the year & then when you head to FNQ. Keep enjoying & being safe.

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